Which is less expensive?
both of you make valid points. I just want to add: making more power from any engine, puts more stress on it parts. there becomes a point that getting an extra 50hp isn't worth losing reliability.
on another note, a stroked engine is a really nice upgrade for a street car. you will have more low end torque from it, and compared to other modifications, it's relatively inexpensive. just remember, that technically a 351w is already stroked. I don't know how big you can go (C.I.), but there will a point where rod clearances, and possibility deck height, become a problem.
personally, I would say 450hp for 5k is doable (351w), but that's with me putting it together. best of luck with this!
on another note, a stroked engine is a really nice upgrade for a street car. you will have more low end torque from it, and compared to other modifications, it's relatively inexpensive. just remember, that technically a 351w is already stroked. I don't know how big you can go (C.I.), but there will a point where rod clearances, and possibility deck height, become a problem.
personally, I would say 450hp for 5k is doable (351w), but that's with me putting it together. best of luck with this!
But the 351w deck is taller, along with the increased stroke. Would this not equate to not a stroked engine, but larger in general.
I am just learner all of this engine stuff, I picked up a few books and doing my homework to really understand the mechanics.
I am just learner all of this engine stuff, I picked up a few books and doing my homework to really understand the mechanics.
The windsor and 302 share the same bore spacing, calling a windsor a stroked 302 is not accurate at all. RPM is what kills parts and longevity especially on the windsors large 3 inch main. So know that its common knowledge and fact that RPM is the killer, why build a smaller inch engine and need to turn more rpm with it to do the same amount of work the larger stroke engine will do at a lower rpm?
Okay, so it seems like everyone agrees that stroking it is the way to go. Next question: Does stroking it to a 408 require a lot of cylinder bore? I ask because I REALLY don't want to bore the walls alot (except for cleaning them up ~.030). And another thing, besides what comes with the rotating assembly, what parts must be either upgraded or changed after a 351 is stroked? I mean engine parts (obviously the drivetrain, chassis, suspension will need to be changed). And finally, from PERSONAL experience, what brand would you guys recommend? Scat? Eagle? Etcetera. Thanks guys, I really appreciate your knowledge on this stuff.
A 302 is a 8.2" deck 3.00 stroke. A 351W is a 9.5" deck with a 3.5" stroke. Same family yes, but not the same block and thus, 351W is not a stroked 302.
Guitar, most of the stroker kits are based on 30 over so a Windsor stroker kit is based on 4.030. You can get them made custom for std, 50, 60, up to .125 over. My Dart can run a 4.125 bore and still have safe cylinder wall thickness, but the norm is 30 over b/c most people are building strokers from used blocks.
Woodsy, you did not really answer my question. At what levels do you need high quality expensive parts? If 400hp can be done with stock parts, do you need to spend money when you hit 500hp, 600hp, 700hp? And if rpms is what kills motors, then why do high stroke motors kill rods at levels that are fine in regular small blocks? I argue it is b/c of torque and piston speed at higher rpm exceeding the strength of the material, not rpm in and of it self that kills motors.
My point is every design is capable of different levels of safe rpm, toque, hp, etc. What makes it dependable depends on the quality of your parts...period. Stock parts are going to break before high quality performance parts given all other factors are the same. Can you build a 450hp/ft*lbs motor from stock parts, yes. Will it last as long as a motor built with quality performance parts, I seriously doubt it. If you agree with that statement, then dependability vs. budget cost is your compromise.
With that, LCC, I completely agree.
Guitar, most of the stroker kits are based on 30 over so a Windsor stroker kit is based on 4.030. You can get them made custom for std, 50, 60, up to .125 over. My Dart can run a 4.125 bore and still have safe cylinder wall thickness, but the norm is 30 over b/c most people are building strokers from used blocks.
Woodsy, you did not really answer my question. At what levels do you need high quality expensive parts? If 400hp can be done with stock parts, do you need to spend money when you hit 500hp, 600hp, 700hp? And if rpms is what kills motors, then why do high stroke motors kill rods at levels that are fine in regular small blocks? I argue it is b/c of torque and piston speed at higher rpm exceeding the strength of the material, not rpm in and of it self that kills motors.
My point is every design is capable of different levels of safe rpm, toque, hp, etc. What makes it dependable depends on the quality of your parts...period. Stock parts are going to break before high quality performance parts given all other factors are the same. Can you build a 450hp/ft*lbs motor from stock parts, yes. Will it last as long as a motor built with quality performance parts, I seriously doubt it. If you agree with that statement, then dependability vs. budget cost is your compromise.
With that, LCC, I completely agree.
Alright, let me make this clear- the 302 and 351 have the same bore, Ford used a longer stroke with the 351 and had to make the block taller for this. If you don't want to call it a stroker- that's fine. I was just trying to make a point that it already has a decent bore to stroke ratio (over square) for low end power.
I agree, RPM will kill any engine. ONE last thing to consider are piston speeds. The longer the stroke- the further distance the piston has to travel at the same RPM (compared to the engine before stroking it).
I agree, RPM will kill any engine. ONE last thing to consider are piston speeds. The longer the stroke- the further distance the piston has to travel at the same RPM (compared to the engine before stroking it).
Okay so here's a question: Is the added cylinder wall stress in a 408w worth it, when its only 15ci more than a 393w (which has mentionable less connecting rod angle). What I mean is that a 408w couldn't be capable of THAT much more than a 393w, so why is it worth the added complications. Anyone know of some detailed online build ups that have been proven successful?


