Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Changing cam?

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #11  
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Waffles
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I replaced my cam in my car, not as hard as everyone makes it sound. More difficult? Sure. Impossible? Nope.
Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #12  
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I got my cam out without removing the radiator support. I did have to remove the center support for the hood latch, though.

When I get home, I'll try to take a look at the Comp Cams options and recommend a cam for you. I'm a big fan of Comp Cams over other companies like Crane and Lunati, just because of the grinds they run. I really don't like Edelbrock's grinds. The Performer is too tame, the RPM is too wild for a stock bottom end.
Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:14 PM
  #13  
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do the cam yourself, its not THAT hard. if your trying to save a buck summit has a 218/228 .471/.471 cam and lifter set for like 100 bucks. it gives a pretty smooth idle and excellent power from idle to around 5500. i had one in a pretty stock 302 and it would destroy the tires in my mustang II

i've done desktop dyno comparisons with that cam against other similar grinds from the name brand companies that cost more and the power was equal.
Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:47 PM
  #14  
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Ive done them in the car as well but if you don't pull the oil pan an just use the timing cover kit your almost always going to get an oil leak. As far as cams I can almost assure you that between a comp copy grind and a comp grind the comp will make more power and more low end. Lift and duration may be the same but the actual valve events may be much different like how fast the valve opens and closes and actual duration/lift at different points.

With those heads I would be most concerned about P/V clearance, so to be safe I would stick with a comp high energy 260 or 268.

What rocker arms are on it and what length pushrods were used?
Old Mar 17, 2009 | 01:42 AM
  #15  
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I really don't like the Summit cam grinds. There's a reason they're so cheap. They really leave a lot of power on the table.

I haven't looked at the Lunati Voodoo grinds (I'm sure someone else will shortly), but I'd probably recommend something like the Comp Cams XE256H. It will make a lot more power than your stock cam, should be ok with the valve springs in the Edelbrock heads, shouldn't cause piston-to-valve clearance issues, and won't kick the power band above the rpm range you're wanting to work in. Overall, you'll notice a great deal more torque, more power above 4k, and won't sacrifice any driveability.
Old Mar 17, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #16  
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the voodoo's are supposed to be really nice, but i haven't used one so i can't speak from experience. i HAVE used that one particular summit grind and would not recommend it if i didn't think it was a worthy bump stick. even with crap *** E6SE heads, a 4bbl intake from a 83 gt (intake ports the size of a 255), a junkyard holley 600 from a ford van with a 351, stock exhaust manifolds and single exhaust the car would roast the tires better than my more powerful 12:1 302 that i put in the car after that motor.

btw, you think summit has their own cam grinder? hell no.... they are buying from one of the large cam manufacturers i just don't know who.
Old Mar 17, 2009 | 11:48 PM
  #17  
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some of the summit grinds are great for the money, I used a performer 204 214 448 472 grind that worked great, I can tell you no big cam company makes summit cams, they are copies of some generic grinds. These days especially with flat tappet grinds go with a trusted name, DO NOT buy cheap lifters as many are made in china and besides the zinc content in oil why many flat tappet cams fail. Frankly, I wont use a flat tappet cam anymore except maybe a custom matched one or a matched setup from comp,crane(out of buis) or lunati and maybe Chet Herbert and Delta cams.

A roller cam hyd or solid is a better choice anymore for reliability.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 10:34 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by htwheelz67
Ive done them in the car as well but if you don't pull the oil pan an just use the timing cover kit your almost always going to get an oil leak.
I've done several timing chain covers without pulling the oil pan and
they didn't leak. The key tricks are to let the gasket sealer cure for a few days before adding oil and starting the engine. Also wipe clean both pan and cover with alcohol to remove any oil before installing gasket sealer.

Last edited by 1971mach1; Mar 18, 2009 at 10:43 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #19  
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you can see my old engine in my signature. very similar to yours just that I had stock heads. I still have to measure the valves as they seem bigger than stock ... anyway I would have picker the exact same cam 31-234-3 as kit (incl lifters etc).
but then again, don't order anything until you know what heads you are actually talking about
Old Mar 22, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #20  
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_Remi
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Hi,

What about Isky cams? My new mechanic told me that they put them in all the street engine rebuild that they do and they are very satisfied...



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