Awhile back, I tried to get my car realigned after redoing the suspension and they couldn't even get my Caster setting over -2 Degrees!! They said the upper control arm was bad and if I wanted to get anywhere near +1.5 Degrees that I would have to install new UCA and adjustable strut rods. I don't need any tubular control arms or anything like that but I was wondering if anyone had anything good to say about Scott Drakes UCA? Or any other brand that is good quality and relatively inexpensive.... Also, any recommendations on strut rods. Is it really easy to build your own adjustables or is it not worth it? They all just seem so expensive. I am trying to get my caster setting as high as possible cause after dropping my front end and throwing on 17's I get terrible "bump steer" effects.

 

Sounds to me like you need to shop around for another alignment shop who knows what they are doing. You can't 'dial in' those adjustable strut rods to add caster, camber or any other front end alignment on a first gen car unless you're running an aftermarket lower control arm that has an articulating attach point. Stock lower control arms will bind if you try to change the length of the strut rods.

 

So are you saying that you can't achieve positive caster settings with stock style upper control arms. They showed me one of their shop cars that had 225 tires on 17s with Scott Drake upper control arms and the shops custom built adjustable strut rods that they had achieved +1.5 Caster. I just want to get rid of my "bump steer" feel when I'm driving down the road and everything i've read leads me to believe that it is a matter of adjusting the caster settings to > +1.5

 

I'm saying that stock lower arms are not designed for pulling forward using an adjustable strut rod. They will bind.

This is why aftermarket LCAs have a spherical bearing at the frame joint.

http://www.globalwest.net/tbf-5_with_brg.jpg

 

Well then have you ever heard of a person being able to achieve +1.5 degrees of Caster with stock lower and upper control arms and stock style strut rods? Or would I have to invest in an expensive suspension package from Global West or TCP?

 

Yes, you can achieve it easily with all stock components as long as the front geometry is correct and the componenets are in good shape. It is achieved by shimming the upper control arm bolts. Did they try that or are they just trying to sell you an expensive component they make that you do not need? Other than worn bushings and control arm/steering components which I am assuming are all good as you said the front end was just rebuilt (is the upper control arm new or did you try to replace the shaft?), the next item that causes problems is shock tower position. These cars sag over the years and really need an export brace and monte carlo bar to maintain the geometry (remember these are spot welded panels over 40 years old). If your control arms are new stock components and your shock towers are in the right position, you should be able to achieve the caster you are looking for relatively easily. Another big help is the Shelby drop. Did you do that? On the early generation cars, it both lowers and moves the upper arm back a bit optimizing camber.

 

The shop that I took it to is actually one of the only Mustang shops in Phoenix. I've been happy with the work that they have done before and I've seen some really SICK rides that they've had in the shop before so I know they do good work. I wanted a performance alignment and they only charged me $100! They said that with the shape my upper control arms were in they would have to shim the crap out of it and in doing so it would be unsafe.

No, the upper control arms are not new nor are the lower control arms but I was wanting to do the shelby drop but after I got new UCA's for obvious reasons. I will check on the shock tower positioning cause I have heard that before about sagging problems. So would you guys say that adjustable strut rods are crap or good. JamesW is saying they will bind the LCA's

 

I'm a little confused as you said you rebuilt the front end?

Anyway, in my opinion if you want a relatively inexpensive result and a great handling car, I would replace the stock upper and lower arms, get a roller spring perch, do the Shelby drop, 1" lowering springs, performance shocks, and ensure all your steering components are good. They can give you the alignment you want. Yes, 65/66 were not designed for adjustable strut rods, so you would need to replace the lower are with a much more expensive aftermarket part.

 

Thanks Mark, I guess it takes two to validate any statement now.

If this Mustang Shop in Phoenix knows your shock towers are so far out of whack that they won't align it using shims, then they sure ought to know you can't pull the LCA forward using an adj. strut rod. Was this their recommendation, or are you trying to find a cheaper solution than fixing your towers?

 

I guess that I wasn't clear, I did the springs and shocks so it wasn't a complete job. Thanks, i'll check the length bewtween shock towers across the engine bay, I think I was told 40" for 65-66. I know a monte carlo bar isn't that expensive. I guess new control arms were on the list sometime so might as well do it now. I was thinking Scott Drake Products, i've always been impressed with their parts before....