Monte Carlo Bar
Of course. I was taking a front end redo as a given and talking about in general (re: spoiler)
Geeze, I don't sign on for one day and this thread gets more hits than Rhianna's face!
Oooowww! Too soon.....?
I'm glad to see all this input though. I would have never guessed it with such a random thread. Just to answer a few questions.
EZFEED, steering stabilizer huh? Never heard of it. I do have a lot of slop in my steering box though so that will eventually need to be replaced or rebuilt. I replaced my upper ball joints about 4 years ago so I don't think those are shot or what's causing it.
Urban Cowboy, I am running BFGoodrich GForce Radial TA's either 225 or 235, can't remember. This problem actually got worse when I switched over to the new radials with the 620 lowering coils. I read articles that said it would happen with shorter springs and bigger wheels but I just couldn't resist the good looks. Now, I have to pay for it.
James, that custom export/monte combo looks sweet, but I don't think it will work on my car since my distributor is right in the way! The TCP setup looks to set the Monte bar closer to the radiator by adding in an extra set of export bracing arms that connect to it in the form of a diamond.
It sounds like my whole front end is gonna need an overhaul. I was thinking that it just might have been my shock towers and a monte bar could have been a quick fix but I shouldn't prolong the inevitable. I just dumped a whole lot of money into new head work so when I get some money reserves I'm gonna need new upper and lower control arms, roller spring perches, strut rods (either 67 or custom adjustable), shelby drop, rebuilt steering box, and eventually new steering linkage. Oh, and definitely a good export brace and monte carlo bar setup.
I appreciate all the help, thanks.
Oooowww! Too soon.....?I'm glad to see all this input though. I would have never guessed it with such a random thread. Just to answer a few questions.
EZFEED, steering stabilizer huh? Never heard of it. I do have a lot of slop in my steering box though so that will eventually need to be replaced or rebuilt. I replaced my upper ball joints about 4 years ago so I don't think those are shot or what's causing it.
Urban Cowboy, I am running BFGoodrich GForce Radial TA's either 225 or 235, can't remember. This problem actually got worse when I switched over to the new radials with the 620 lowering coils. I read articles that said it would happen with shorter springs and bigger wheels but I just couldn't resist the good looks. Now, I have to pay for it.
James, that custom export/monte combo looks sweet, but I don't think it will work on my car since my distributor is right in the way! The TCP setup looks to set the Monte bar closer to the radiator by adding in an extra set of export bracing arms that connect to it in the form of a diamond.
It sounds like my whole front end is gonna need an overhaul. I was thinking that it just might have been my shock towers and a monte bar could have been a quick fix but I shouldn't prolong the inevitable. I just dumped a whole lot of money into new head work so when I get some money reserves I'm gonna need new upper and lower control arms, roller spring perches, strut rods (either 67 or custom adjustable), shelby drop, rebuilt steering box, and eventually new steering linkage. Oh, and definitely a good export brace and monte carlo bar setup.
I appreciate all the help, thanks.
as for my front end swimming at 80,. it's my balljoints and UCA bushings. but i'll see to them after the summer
Here ya go, James. Looks exactly like my factory piece

Ok, so apparently that pic isn't exactly like mine. I was looking at the other end. The stock '67 pieces have a lot more threads (I want to say 8" or so) and two nuts on the end, one on either side of the strut rod bushing caps.
I have no idea how mustang plus thinks that will work on a 67 becase it won't. The 65/6 has a shoulder on the back side like the one they are showing. The 67 has a nut on the back side. To adjust the camber you back the nut off on the back side and tighten the nut on the front side. I took a piicture just to show you guys. And the bushings on the 67 are no different than the 65/6. The one deviousfred put up is the right one. It is hard to see how it works without the nut on it though.
Last edited by 67t5ponycoupe; Apr 9, 2009 at 10:51 PM.


