I have just taken my factory 2 barrel carb off and put in an original Eledebrock torker and a Holley 600 cfm carb. The only problem is the engine is running a bit rich, and I think the reason is one of the carb stud holes has been stripped. I have tried to retap the hole but can’t get enough threading. I have read that if you close the idle mixture screw and the car still runs there is a vacum problem and can cause the engine to run rich. We are thinking about trying to rethread one more time but this time put JB weld in to hold the stud in place. Does anyone know if this will work or have any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

jb weld may work, you can dill it out and use a heli coil, how old is the carb and I hope your not using that torker on a stock engine as you will see the 2bbl will be faster.

 

Why a single plane Torker 2? On a stock engine, you will not get the runner velocity required for any kind of performance. The Performer RPM or other dual plane is a much better choice. JB Weld will work just fine.

 

It isn't the Torker 2 it is jsut a 289 Toker. The carb if from 75.

 

I assume you are talking about the stud hole in the intake manifold that holds the carb on. If so, to fix it I would use a helicoil. Also, a leak at one of these studs would result in leaning the mixture, not making it richer. A possibility with the holley is that the power valve is punctured. Vacuum closes the power valve and when the vacuum drops, the PV opens. If the PV has a hole then it open too soon, or it could just be open all the time allowing excess fuel to leak into the engine. PV's are not normally an idle problem since they are in the power circuit, but a hole changes this. Another thing that will make it run rich is too high a float level. Has the carb been rebuilt?

 

Whenever we want aluminum threads to be strong we helicoil them in the machine shop field. I however think that JBweld should work since the amount of TQ is near minimum to bolt a carb down. Assuming the carb is in good shape and hasnt been sitting out since 75 with dried up needle seats and gaskets. an easy way to find vacuum leaks is with some starting fluid being sprayed around the possible leak area.

when your setting that holley you need to be 100% sure that both A/F needles are turned in/out the same amount. a general basis is when you turn them in till they are snug then turn them back out 1 3/4 of a turn.

 

+1

That original Torker is a great intake...but not on a stock engine. It's designed for higher rpm use than a stock motor is going to operate at. You'd need to have good heads and a cam to take advantage of it, otherwise all you're doing is killing throttle response.

 

the torker is much more of a high rpm intake than the torker 2, with a stock cam/engine it will be much slower than the stock 2bbl off the line and up to 3500-4000 rpm, then when the torker starts making power the stock cam will stop making power and you will be slower an get less mpg's than you did with the stock 2v, with a stock engine you will go faster an get better mpgs with a perfomer, professional products,summit racing stage 1 (same as PP and copy of perfomer) or best weiand 8124 which will give you the most bang for the buck. The old torker intake is between a torker 2 and a vic jr in performance and NOT for a stock engine, it needs more compession, more cam and way steeper gears, if it had a blower it would work ok. Sell it and buy a good dual plane intake, even the stock 289 4bbl intake will run circles around and make a ton more low end tq than a torker or any single plane intake on a stock motor. Think about putting a 950 double pumper holley on a stock 289.......thats about what putting a torker on a stock 289 is like and on a small dual plane the 950 would probably go faster than a 600 on a torker.