I believe the spider is for an OEM roller lifter set-up. If you use aftermarket linked lifters (expensive!), then I don't believe you would need the spider set-up.

If you wanna convert to roller but still keep the cost down, they sell a retofit kit for some blocks where you could use the spider.
Here is one for a Cleveland:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Windsor:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Yeah. The way the spider spring works, is the lifters are cut with flat sides on them, and then a metal link bar that looks kinda like a dog bone, or a dog bone with open ends, slides over the lifters, each set for a cylinder are paired together. It forces the flat sides to line up so the roller stays true to the came lobe. The spider spring just holds the links in place.

Conversion lifters with the link bars attached are pricey, or you can convert to run a spider spring. The later blocks don't have a provision for the clutch z-bar, so you either have to get an adapter bracket, or convert to cable/hydraulic. Just make sure you get a clutch for the right linkage type.

As far as power, a stock late roller "weak" block will still hold 500-550hp reliably if TUNED PROPERLY! Like was mentioned earlier, if you're talking about making that much power regularly you should really start looking into a sportsman type block. As far as aluminum heads....I use all the power I have on the street every time I drive it!

 

When I was building my car it already came with a 68' 302. I chaose to go with a late model 5.0 HO Roller motor for all the above reasons mentioned above. It origianlly had GT40 Iron heads (Good Heads) then I went with the TFS TW Aluminum heads down the road, but motor made good power with the GT40's.