I do it all the time Kalli and I even have access to an extra set of hands but they are too lazy to be of any real use.

One thing you will want to do, if your hood is mated up to where it fits the fenders well, is trace around the hinge where it mates to the hood with a scribe or something that will give you an exact location. This way you can replace it exactly in the same location it was before.

Trick to removing the hood by yourself is after you've marked it, go ahead and loosen all 4 bolts to finger tight then close the hood to within a foot of the latch and reach under each side and remove the bolts while holding on to it with your other hand. Keeps it sort of level and you can just tip it off after that. My little brother tried taking the hood off my 66 with it wide open while i wasn't there and ended up ruining the rear corners of the hood plus giving me two nice dings on the cowl.

 

I pulled the engine (w/o trans.) by myself in my '65. I didn't even use a load leveler.
Def. need Two hands to pull the hood off. Too heavy for one person.

I painted the engine bay and all that while it was at the machine shop. Put it back in myself. Had a helluva time getting the new T5 to line up! But did get it done by myself.

good luck!

 

definitely possible, I was able to put ON my hood by myself with no one around, so I"m betting you can take one off. But then again, I didn't care about paint because it was still in flakey faded paint and crap, I rigged up a nice pulley system through the hood pin holes. Getting the good from where it was at to on top of the car was kind of difficult, but once the pulley rope was on I was able to do the rest

and as for actually pulling the engine in that that is diffinitely do able, the 2nd person when i took mine is really only said "ok you're good" and "stop" a lot and then help pull back the hoist. If you just do it slowly you can probably do this all yourself.

 

It is definately do-able. If you lower the hood to almost closed when you remove the bolts, won't the springs cause it to fly up when you don't want it to? The way I do it is to loosen the bolts, with the hood all the way up. Remove the front 1 on each side first. Then, (an air ratchet makes this part easier but you can do it by hand) while holding the nose up with one hand, remove the other bolts. Then it can be lowered to level and removed. (if these old hoods are too heavy, you're a little on the wimpy side)

Got to have a leveler to pull trans with motor but, not necessary for just motor. Just have to take your time with everything....sucks to scratch nice new paint just cuz you get in a hurry.

 

I think I should be able to do it...I can probably find an extra set of hands but I don't know that many "car types" around here. I could ask some folks like my step-brother but he would have to make a special trip over, etc. Most of the folks in the local "car club" just like to drive them but don't really know a screw driver from a socket wrench. There is one guy in the local car club I could ask but he is getting a bit older so I sort of hate to ask him really.

Not pulling the trans, just the motor. While it's out I am going to fix my fender apron under the battery, put in the new battery tray and may think about replacing the radiator support also. The rad support has a couple of 40+ years of battery acid related holes and it would sure be a good time to do it.

My paint is "ok" but certainly a 10 - 15 footer at best...I have intentionally been putting off paint until everything else is done on the car.

 

If all else fails, I could come up there and lend a hand.

 

Thanks for the offer Nick...I'll keep you posted.

I am getting really close on having the money to have the motor built. Already have the GT40's and most of the other bolt on stuff such as intake, dizzy, etc. I was going to go by the engine builder's place today at lunch but I decided to get the Mustang inspected today instead. However, the money for the engine builder is only part of the puzzle. I also will need to find a decent mig welder, probably an engine stand, etc..been shopping around and figuring out how to get the money for that also.

I think once I tell the builder "go" then he will need several weeks. I am thinking about pulling the 289 either before I tell him go or about the same time so that I have several weeks to a month to get the other stuff completed as well. He did say something about if I had the 289 ready when he delivers the new motor he'd give me a couple of hundred off. Mostly I want it out a few weeks to a month in advance to reduce the temptation of having a new motor sitting on the stand. Might make me want to hurry and not do as good a job on the clean up due to excitement of wanting to put the new motor in.

I have labor day as a company holiday and if the kids' day care is open and the wife has to work that day I just might try to go for pulling it that day....but for now I am saving money, shopping for a few needed items and planning.

 

I have an engine stand that I might not be using at the time you need one.

Where did you get your heads?

 

I found a local guy that had the GT40's. He had them rebuilt and ported slightly about six months ago then decided to go another route so he never installed them. He spent about $600 at the head shop http://theheadshopracing.com/ but he sold them to me for around $500.

I've been trading e-mails again with the engine guy last night / this morning to discuss prices and options. In theory I could have the 289 rebuilt instead of going with a 302. One of my concerns with a 302 roller block is how well it would mount up to my C4 trans, etc.