1971 fastback uni-body
#2
I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. Splicing a uni-body?????? On a uni-body you replace whats broke and duplicate the original. It is very dependent on what needs to be fixed. Repair panels are available from aftermarket suppliers. Please explain better what you are trying to do.
#3
71 uni-body
I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. Splicing a uni-body?????? On a uni-body you replace whats broke and duplicate the original. It is very dependent on what needs to be fixed. Repair panels are available from aftermarket suppliers. Please explain better what you are trying to do.
#4
If the damage is severe enough and you are going to be replacing the entire front frame rails and torque boxes then you need to remove the old ones completely by removing the factory spot welds. Once the old ones are out the new ones are welded in in the same manner as the originals were.
If you have any pictures you could post that would help the assessment of how you would need to proceed.
#5
Well here is what a 71 looks like with nothing on it.
Click the POD link in the sig to see more.
Now if I were to clip one, it would be different if it was from a collision or due to rust. The last straight piece in a collision, or the last repairable one. The roof is quite long so you would want to cut the A pillars and replace the rocker panels, They are most of the structure and cutting them along with the rest of the car might not be a great thing. It will take less time to just whack the rocker panels right behind the transmission crossmember, but the strength of the car would depend entirely on the welds. If you want to just whack it, then right behind the front subframe rails would be a good place.
Click the POD link in the sig to see more.
Now if I were to clip one, it would be different if it was from a collision or due to rust. The last straight piece in a collision, or the last repairable one. The roof is quite long so you would want to cut the A pillars and replace the rocker panels, They are most of the structure and cutting them along with the rest of the car might not be a great thing. It will take less time to just whack the rocker panels right behind the transmission crossmember, but the strength of the car would depend entirely on the welds. If you want to just whack it, then right behind the front subframe rails would be a good place.
#6
this is what point im at now maybe a little further no axles spindles wire brake lines nothing but a shell........i bought a front clip assembly out of Oregon in excellent shape already for primer NO RUST!!!,this clip is of a 71 ford mustang fastback it was cut behind the front seats then at the windshield post A-something? my existing front end is in bad shape including torque boxes,right frame rail,all four aprons,shock towers,fire wall and cowl a friend of mine works in a collision shop i believe they do things (cut corners) but they were suggesting that we cut this thing at the rockers and window post in steps of course like not a straight cut if you know what i mean. The last restoration i done was a 1967 XR-7 cougar Alabama car not a spot of rust new interior fresh eng and tranny and paint it was ready for fun.....I'am just looking for good advice anybody can do a chop job!!!!!! 109jb posted some advice i liked>>>>>>>i will post some picks.. i have two boys 24 and 19 these kids are jumping out of there skin on this thing
#8
Given your description, I would separate the frame rails from the floor boards, cut out the firewall, torque boxes and separate the aprons from the cowl. Then do the same on your new from clip. From there I would weld in the new front clip duplicating the factory welds with spot ot plug welds. If you are lucky everything will go together OK. I think if yours is that bad though (rust????) then you will find that it probably needs inner rockers and floors. If so, just go ahead and replace them and continue in the same fashion. I would do this rather than take the easy way out by cutting through the rockers, floor, transmission tunnel and windshield posts and splicing together. You can do that and it may come out OK, but would not be my choice. If you do that you don't want just straight cuts perpendicaulat to these members. Make Z cuts and where it won't be visible add doubler plates
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