I was starting my engine for the first time last night, it kept cranking and would not fire.

Ok. It was a 1972 302 engine with a Pro Comp Cam in it. Also, I changed the front of the engine from the 72 to a 65 setup. So I have the water pump and timing cover and the balancer on it. However, when I found my TOD for the balancer is it still the same as of the 72?

For instance, The 72 balancer was biger with a 4 bolts, the 65 one was smaller with a 3 bolts setup.

Any help would be great!

 

For not firing, check the normal stuff, spark, fuel, compression. Since the engine is newly rebuilt, skip compression as I assume that's good. So that leaves fuel and spark.

The balancer has nothing to do with it not firing, unless you're saying it is not timed properly due to the timing marks. To be honest, it's kinda hard to tell what your question is from your post.

 

I did the same, but with a rebuilt 5.0 and 65 cover, with a 3/4hole balancer, which had three sets of timing makes on it.
I ended up putting a plastic wire in the plug hole and turning the engine over to TDC.
then checked it with the light finding which mark to use, you might have to find TDC and make your own make to show zero.

 

Ahhhh, now I see what he was asking.

 

65Rocky. You are exactly right. That is the answer I want to hear. Turns out When we placed the distributor in, it seemed that it was not aligned with #1 piston. Looked like it was on the next one down from #1. I will Make my own TDC lines tonight. As for the plastic spark plug. what are you trying to do.

Is it as easy as takening out the #1 spark plug and placing a finger in there to see it its up top and then rotate that engine counter clockwise and then make a mark on the other side, there we go?

thxs

 

Yes, use a screwdriver, piece of wire, a ziptie.. anything that will reach down in the hole.. finger wont reach :P find where the piston has its highest travel and set for #1 on the dist there. then advance it a small bit (clockwise rotation of the dist) and you should be good to go.

 

Just because #1 piston is at the top does not mean it is at TDC. You could be on the exhaust stroke. Which would put you 180 out. You need to make sure on #1 cylinder both intake and exhaust valves are closed and then with the piston at the top you will be at TDC.

 

you have to tackle this from both directions.
Even with a proper piston stop you have to turn counterclockwise and make a marking where you hit the piston stop (if you use a screw driver where you think there is TDC). and then go the opposite way around (turning the engine) and make a 2nd mark
TDC is exactly between those two marks.
The reason for this is that when piston is at TDC there's about 20- degrees of turning where you can't feel the piston go up or down. at least I can't.
So go from both sides. Otherwise you'll never have a correct mark.

Then make sure you have the correct firing order. (distributor rotates counterclockwise). Make sure #1 is aligned when at TDC
if it doesn't fire then just swap the cables on the distributor with it's opposite cable.
This will effect to turn it by 180 degrees in case you had the 'wrong' TDC (360 crankshaft degrees out)

If that still doesn't work check if you are getting spark at all and fuel

 

Kalli - guys.
This is what I needed to hear. I will use a screwdriver and pull out the distributor and mark it with chalk.

 

if you are using a piston stop (something a local car part store might have) you will be more exact. it basically threads in like a spark plug and you can determine how far. this is very accurate. they only freak me out as I am constantly having nightmares forgetting to remove one after I'm done. Best thing is to remove the key from ignition and tape it under the car before you start so you'll remember why you did that before starting again :-)

for marking you can use Tip-Ex. works perfect and you can get it off again once not needed anymore