Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Progress.. finally w/pics

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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:52 AM
  #11  
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valley firearms
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It does. It's just dirtier and a different year. Other than that they look just alike
Originally Posted by Waffles
Wish the underside of my car looked like that.
Old May 12, 2009 | 11:14 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Adrenolin
Thanks

The entire chassis was cleaned down to the bare metal from front to back.

I am NOT looking forward to that whenever I get to it. Ugh, shudder just thinking about all that scraping.

It really looks great man.
Old May 12, 2009 | 11:17 AM
  #13  
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Wow, that is just awsome looking!
Old May 12, 2009 | 06:26 PM
  #14  
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Thanks all I'm glad to hear others like all our hard work. Its a huge job getting the bottom cleaned down and your looking at a week or two and even that was while it was on a rotisserie. I shudder to think how long it would have taken if it were only on stands.

kalli.. yeah with the 3 coats of Spectrum on the bottom, the layer of Damplifier Pro on the trunk floor, 3 layers between the trunk and cabin and thats even covered in 2 coats of Spectrum I hope its enough to rid me of any sound the pump makes... or at least it better!

Today..
  1. we got the wiper assembly installed with a new motor
  2. installed the Vintage Air unit under the dash (the top drivers side bolt is a b!tch to get!)
  3. another coat of Firewall on the firewall and down through the tunnel.
  4. security alarms mounted
  5. installed the Low Fuel sensor in the fuel tank and gave the topside a coat of POR-15 to finish it off.
  6. finalized locations for the fuse panel, MSD box, SPAL control, rust inhibitor, inverter, amps, battery & brain and a number of other small control modules (they seem to never end).
Old May 12, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #15  
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Wow, everything is looking great! I'm inspired to get back to mine.

Did you use thread sealant on theat npt fitting in the fuel pump? It doesn't look like it and it will leak without it. Don't use the tape, use the teflon liquid.
Old May 12, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #16  
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I have the Wilwoods up front as well. Safety wiring isn't really necessary unless you race, but it's always a good idea.

Also, your Slide-A-Links are installed incorrectly. On the bell crank portion that bolts through the front spring eye, the 1 bolt with the bushing through it(the one that the link is NOT attached to, the highest one) is supposed to go OVER the leaf spring, not under it. The idea is that when the axle housing tries to rotate the link is pushed forward, and the bell crank rotates around and that bushing pushes down on the leaf springs, planting the rear.

Definitely wanna get that changed before you drive it. And don't forget to follow Wilwoods procedure for bedding the pads and rotors, they'll work much better and last a lot longer.
Old May 12, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #17  
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Sweet 8 1/2 lb baby Jesus!
Nice work man
Old May 12, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #18  
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thats looking great! I love progress pics haha

keep up the great work, hopefully i'll be that good one day
Old May 12, 2009 | 11:14 PM
  #19  
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Mark.. Yes I did however it was done the next day. In the pic above the NPT ends were simple finger turned and not tightened.

67mustang302.. Nice eye catching that. Thanks! I'll get that fixed in the next day or so for sure.

4reboy.. First time doing this type of thing. My father helps a lot but he hasn't done anything to this extent before either. I've made a few mistakes along the way but its really just putting time in and lots of reading.
Old May 12, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #20  
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How much did it cost to get the block powder coated btw? It seems like it's getting a lot cheaper these days.



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