Over the past week we have hit a number of issues, as expected, however most have been easily corrected. Here are some of the things we've done.

1. Sprayed 3 coats of SecondSkin Spectrum undercoating to the chassis & wheel wells. Sprayed 2 coats on the interior pans, firewall, trunk divider (both sides) & inside the quarters. Interior coats were sprayed over SS Damplifier Pro mats and so far the results are nice. Everything gives a very solid thump and not a twang.
2. De-glossed the POR-15 on the engine bay firewall and brushed on 2 coats of SS Firewall to help keep the heat out of the interior cabin. Will get another 2 coats on tomorrow hopefully to finish it. After a few days to cure it gets lightly sanded to smooth and then finial full bay topcoat.. chassis black.
3. Got the Currie 9" rearend, 11" Exploder disk brakes, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Competition Engineering Slide-A-Link traction bars all installed with the 4.5 leaf springs in the rear. Calipers were disassembled yesterday and dropped off for mirror black powder coating.
4. Assembled the front Wilwood brake rotors. These are 2 part cap/rotor setups which are bolted together and then safety wire is run through the bolts. Something fun to do while watching Sunday nights Nascar race.
5. Mounted the Mallory electric fuel pump and filter in the rear. Made up the tank to filter and filter to pump stainless braided fuel lines. Love these lines!'
6. Cleaned and applied 2 coats of POR-15 to the underside of the fuel tank.
7. Wirewheeled a spot on the fuel tank (forgot something ) and drilled a 3/4" hole, thread in brass fitting 3/8" inside thread, surround with body adhesive, let dry over night. Tomorrow I'll touch up the POR-15 and install the Low Fuel sensor into the tank and test for leaks.
8. 351w engine block has been powder coated.. Translucent Purple! Yes folks this was exactly the shade of purple she wanted. Dropped the block off at the machine shop where it'll be bored and decked.
9. Splash shield rubbers installed.
10. Wiring conduit on drivers side installed with waterproof fittings between firewall and rad support. Most wiring will be run down low for a clean look where possible.
11. AJE Racing front suspension.. Got the engine braces drilled out and removed from the frame rails and towers. Quite easy actually and took about 90 minutes to do.. including a coffee brake. Filled, sanded & painted the newly exposed areas. *** Progress Stopped *** Due to their complete lack of quality control in nearly every aspect of their product! Struts sent out for correct machining! Perhaps another thread regarding all the problems I've had so far at a later date.
12. Lots of chat regarding placement of so many extras going into the car.
13. More coffee consumed in a week then should be allowed in a month!

 

thanks for the share.... nice job....

 

damn, very nice job!

 

Hell yeah! Nice.

How far did towards bare metal did you take the underside of the car before adding the coating?

 

no rubber between pump and chassis is BIG MISTAKE :-)
it's the mallory gerotor that _should_ be quiter. But you know when somethign makes noise and you try to hit it so it goes away? I'm at the stage of going insane as I can't reach back to the pump to rip it out while i'm driving.

otherwise it's looking very good. what's that fresh air vent contraption in front wheel well?

btw: if the fuel tank is not mounted yet I'd schulz that as well

 

Thanks

The entire chassis was cleaned down to the bare metal from front to back. The entire thing! We had it up on a rotisserie for that and was still a b|tch! It then had 3 coats of POR-15 sprayed on the entire chassis followed by 3 coats of SecondSkin Spectrum. Its well covered.

kalli.. Didn't read anything about requiring rubber between the chassis and pump. It gets grounded anyways so didn't think there was any need.

Should it be removed and a rubber placed between them?

 

Thanks

The entire chassis was cleaned down to the bare metal from front to back. The entire thing! We had it up on a rotisserie for that and was still a b|tch! It then had 3 coats of POR-15 sprayed on the entire chassis followed by 3 coats of SecondSkin Spectrum. Its well covered.

kalli.. Didn't read anything about requiring rubber between the chassis and pump. It gets grounded anyways so didn't think there was any need.

Should it be removed and a rubber placed between them?

 

the pump gets groujnd via cable. there's Plus and minus (two cables). So no ground via chassis bolting.
The rubber is solely to avoid noise. I'm going to put some rubber inbetween mine tonight. I'll just cut it out of a rubber mat. Or you can use and old heater hose or something like Mark suggested.

It might be not as bad as you have undercoated and since its m,ore silent gerotor pump. But I'm telling you the noise of my pump is driving me bananas ;-)

Kalli

 

Wish the underside of my car looked like that.

 

yah. it's looking great alright