Stroking a 289?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 10
From: TX
Stroking a 289?
Anyone ever stroked a 1966 era 289 out to a 331? Tell me what you think about it...
I have the 289 and was going to go with a 302 roller motor but now I am debating taking that 289 and stroking it out to a 331.
The 289 potentially is already stroked out to a 302, but I am not 100% sure.
I was thinking about just getting a 331 crank and a 302 rebuild kit from DSS and wasn't sure what cam to use either.
Give me some ideas guys.
I have the 289 and was going to go with a 302 roller motor but now I am debating taking that 289 and stroking it out to a 331.
The 289 potentially is already stroked out to a 302, but I am not 100% sure.
I was thinking about just getting a 331 crank and a 302 rebuild kit from DSS and wasn't sure what cam to use either.
Give me some ideas guys.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 197
From: California
You could stroke your 289 out to a 331. Using a DDS kit, it will most likely come with a roller cam shaft, which means you will have to get (or install) a roller camshaft retrofit kit in your 289 black. I am thinking about doing the same thing. But with engine places selling a roller 347 for around 4 grand that are pushing 400+ hp, (t&l engines) it is debatable on which route you should go. Especially if you are on a tight budget.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 381
From: SJ, CA
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
Kadumel do more internet research, then find a good local machine shop. Talk to them, they may have a good roller block cheap. In phoenix, it is not uncommon to find a running 302 HO for $300. I payed $150 for mine. On a budget means a target of 300 hp to me. A 331 with stock heads won't get you there without something radical for a cam, however, a 302 with good heads and a proper cam will.
Remember to build the engine for a specific purpose in specific car. Transmission, gear ratio, stall and tire size all have effects on engine builds.
I met a guy who put a 450 horse 347 in a mustang with an open diff and 2.80 gears. Personally, the engine is the last piece of the puzzle. It is selected only after you have defined the rest of the car(including purpose).
Start with tire size because you know there is only one tire wheel combo for your car. (25.5")
Next move to the rear diff. Do you have posi? If not, 100 extra hp won't get you off the line any faster. My build is for a street car so I picked my rear end ratio (3.55) to work with my transmission for a particular freeway RPM (2200 at 70 mph in 5th gear).
Next you select the heads you can afford, a cam that has a power spread that suits the build and a carb that modulates the harmony that is horsepower.
Of course you will have headers.
A distributor that can keep up.
A cooling system that compliments the package.
I think 289 blocks should be preserved. Some day, a virgin 289 block may be worth more than a complete strong running 302.
Build it in your mind 20 times then make it a reality.
Remember to build the engine for a specific purpose in specific car. Transmission, gear ratio, stall and tire size all have effects on engine builds.
I met a guy who put a 450 horse 347 in a mustang with an open diff and 2.80 gears. Personally, the engine is the last piece of the puzzle. It is selected only after you have defined the rest of the car(including purpose).
Start with tire size because you know there is only one tire wheel combo for your car. (25.5")
Next move to the rear diff. Do you have posi? If not, 100 extra hp won't get you off the line any faster. My build is for a street car so I picked my rear end ratio (3.55) to work with my transmission for a particular freeway RPM (2200 at 70 mph in 5th gear).
Next you select the heads you can afford, a cam that has a power spread that suits the build and a carb that modulates the harmony that is horsepower.
Of course you will have headers.
A distributor that can keep up.
A cooling system that compliments the package.
I think 289 blocks should be preserved. Some day, a virgin 289 block may be worth more than a complete strong running 302.
Build it in your mind 20 times then make it a reality.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
The only major differences in the blocks are the tall lifter bores and the lack of a z-bar mounting boss on the roller block.
I run a 289 based 331 stroker and I love it. Gobs of torque (and that was before the head swap I'm performing), winds up to 6200, and makes lots of noise.
Still, I'd recommend going with a roller block. Roller cams have much more power potential, and it's easier/cheaper to start with a roller block than to convert a non-roller over.
I run a 289 based 331 stroker and I love it. Gobs of torque (and that was before the head swap I'm performing), winds up to 6200, and makes lots of noise.
Still, I'd recommend going with a roller block. Roller cams have much more power potential, and it's easier/cheaper to start with a roller block than to convert a non-roller over.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 678
From: Smyrna, TN
Wish I could tell you how it feels but I haven't started it yet. Wanted to keep my original 289 in the car so I stroked to 333 (.040) and used a CC XE262 cam with roller rockers and AFR 165 heads. I think I'll be quite happy with the motor. I see more rollers at carshows now, the 289 are fewer so I wanted to be a little different.
Can't wait to run down the local 1/8 against a roller to see if there is any advantage but my car is 90% DD and fun car so I don't mind not being the fastest car at the track, just the one that can drive to/from for many miles.
Good advice above, plan all your parts to work together and complement each other, first step I'd suggest for the motor is better heads than the restrictive stock ones, stroking the motor will be wasted HP if it can't breathe.
Jon
Can't wait to run down the local 1/8 against a roller to see if there is any advantage but my car is 90% DD and fun car so I don't mind not being the fastest car at the track, just the one that can drive to/from for many miles.
Good advice above, plan all your parts to work together and complement each other, first step I'd suggest for the motor is better heads than the restrictive stock ones, stroking the motor will be wasted HP if it can't breathe.
Jon
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 10
From: TX
Yes I have done much planning so far, still alot more to do. I have a roller 302 block but I am sitting here looking at the empty block and looking at the 289 full motor and everything and thinking :
"You know, the rotating assembly would fit in both of these motors. The heads will also fit on both of these motors. I have GT40 heads and can get the rotating assembly cheap. Why not just put it in the 289 and just get a 302 race prepped motor on the side that I can move the rotating assembly over into and just move heads over onto?"
"You know, the rotating assembly would fit in both of these motors. The heads will also fit on both of these motors. I have GT40 heads and can get the rotating assembly cheap. Why not just put it in the 289 and just get a 302 race prepped motor on the side that I can move the rotating assembly over into and just move heads over onto?"