I was driving my car around the neighborhood when it stalls at a stop sign. Go to start it back up..... nothing not even a click from the solenoid.
I hot wire it and drive it home.
Go out the next day and discover that the wiring harness that goes from the firewall to the solenoid fell onto the header and melted.
It fried the solenoid, some wires and 3 fuses.
after taking that picture and tracing the big fried wire i might have fried the alternator and external voltage regulator as well.

I have replace the solenoid, the fuses and repaired the wires. I have a fluke (volt ohm meter) and know how to use it, at least i think i do.
I can deal with mechanical, I will even do body work when i have to. But, Electrical is out of my comfort zone

 

blasphemy!!! a mustang is never dead!!

 

Don't take this wrong but that is funny as crap. Not for you of course.

And +1 on electrical. I would be be dead with out my Dad and Brother in Law when I have an electrical problem.

 

The best part is that fabricated blower motor cover...making that had to be 10 times harder than just replacing the heater core

Just cut away the bad wire then solder in some new splices, replace fuses and see what happens.

-Gun

 

Once it starts and drives without being hotwired I will worry about the heater.

 

heater?. . .who needs a heater in south carolina?

 

The 70 had the harness running up the pass side? I'm not familair with that. What color wires are in that and do they all go to the sol? Your batt must be good if you can hotwire it, so.....I got a blank. See if you can trace the power. Can you post a pic of the sol area? check for power at the pos term of the sol...and the batt term on the back of the alt. I need to find a wiring pic and think some more(just got up).

 

I'll do that when i get off work. thanks for the help.

and it snowed here last winter! thats pretty damn cold. I at least need the defroster

 

Not sure if this is going to help, but I'll give it a shot. Your problem is with that black wire I believe. That is the main power wire for the car. If you follow it towards the front of the car, it should end at the starter sol. on the same post as the battery cable. This wire also comes to a splice and goes to other places (after this point in your pic I think). It runs to the alterntor (batt term), the ignition switch, the printed circuit(dash), and through the fuse box to the turn signal switch. (this must be the fuse you blew).

I would start tracing it from the battery and when you no longer find power, you found your problem. Start by measuring batt voltage across the posts. You should have around 12volts here. If not...batt dead. If you do, leave the positive lead on the battery and ground the neg lead to the body of the car.(anywhere that is not the ground cable). If you don't get batt volts, check and repair the ground cable. If you still have 12v, leave the ground lead hooked up (or you can connect it back to the neg side of batt.) and probe the pos lead to the batt side of the solonoid. (check it on the post, not the cable). Do you still have 12v? If not, check and repair pos batt cable.

If you still have power to this point, move on down to your butt connector repair. See if there is power on both sides. Also, just for grins, check for power at the batt term of the alternator.


Let me know if this doesn't find your problem and we can move further.

 

all i have for you is a picture, and the battery still holds a charge, there is power on both sides of the butt splice(checked that when i did it) it started raining again (been off and on since i got home from work..... mostly on) so i will have to wait until tomorrow to hand over hand the wiring.