So, how is a loop any worse than the coolant traveling thru the heater and going back into the motor hot? Not being smart or anything, I just don't see it.

 

I guess what I meant to say is that I want to block off the cowl, and close up all the openings for the heater.... am I making sense?

 

Is the heater core leaking too? Does green coolant get on the carpet?

 

Yes.... the core is leaking.... I can live without it... and the route I am going with the car I am not going to need it.... there is going to be a netbook installed in that area also for some electronic gadgets... but dont worry... everything is going to be very subtle...

 

does the cowl leak as well? or did you mean the core?

Replacing the core is a very simple job but if you want to get rid of it....buy a new core for it and you could probably get a good deal of money for it on ebay assuming the blower motor runs fine... I personally would repair the heater but I live in central Ca....apparently you guys never have winter... so put it on ebay then!

-Gun

 

Because it's going back in HOT, instead of going back in COOL. Looping the hose is like putting a smaller, weaker water pump on- less coolant goes to the radiator, so less cooling can take place.

The heater coil has at least the potential to reduce the flow. When you are using the heater, it acts as a little radiator. You don't need it in the summer, it just makes the radiator less effective.

Have you ever noticed that factory air conditioning cars have heater hose shutoff valves? That causes ALL the coolant to go to the radiator, making it more effective, for warm weather operation.

Back in the day, it was common practice for carmakers to put a manual valve in the heater hose, for summer driving. At some point they decided people didn't bother, and dropped them to save cost. You can still buy them, though.

 

Ok., that sounds good. So, if I put one of those shut-offs in my line, would it make any difference? It never had one and didn't come with one. I have a non-ac car though and it only runs hot when I'm sitting in traffic but, I think that is from not having a shroud.

Sorry for the thread-jack...it's not a big deal to remove the core though. Should be able to do it in less than 2 hours. These cars were built long before manuf's started using the "special" crap.

 

Ok, so what I am doing, I am going to completely block off the cowl, because it the drain is clogged, but also the core is leaking into the carpet... so I want to seal off that area and install the electronics for the car there.

 

The shroud will help, and the valve prob'ly give you 5% better cooling, which could be the difference between overheating and not.

 

You should probably look into fixing the drain or whatever is needed to make it work as intended....we could get away with that here but, doesn't it rain in Ca?