After reading more I might opt to have the block rebuilt and purchase new completed alum heads.

Question:
If I remove one of the heads am I able to measure the cylinders to determine if they have been bored previously and what remains since there is a limit?

sparx

 

I've never done it before, but I believe there is a special tool to measure cylinder bores.

 

Of course there is! Nothing is easy!!! LOL

Since the rebore is from .030 to .060 that would be the signal. Am I correct the stock bore is 4.00? I have books ordered and on the way or I would have this fact in hand already.

 

Yes it is 4.00

 

I may have found a shop I am comfortable with. Gave him the compression readings and he feels the block is not that bad. Quote about $1250.00 for the top and bottom with one year guarantee.

Time to pay a visit to his shop and then move ahead if things look right.

 

I'd rebuild. This way you know intimately what is going on inside your motor. I've built my own engines for years (for my race cars). I've blown 2 motors in 24 years, both built/assembled by somebody else. I bought them when I 'didn't have time/found a good deal'. The ones I built ran until they wore out.

Assembly is not tough whether its a ford, chevy or mopar. It's about the numbers. Make sure the clearances are where they should be, and the parts all fit right. The only way to do that is to have a good machine shop do the block and heads. If you buy a rotating assmebly, measure it when it comes in to make sure its right. Then, clean it all until you're sick of it, then clean it again. Assemble with LOTS of lube, pay attention, ask questions if you don't know.

The thing about building your own is that you care. The guy on the assembly line doing the rebuilds doesn't care if the bearings are off a little, you will. Do it right and it will last a long time. It might cost a little more to do it this way, but in the end you'll save money.

Plus when somebody compliments the engine and asks who built it you get to give the best answer in the world "I built it".

 

Interesting, what was it like doing your first rebuild? Did you know what you were doing? Did you have all the right tools? Did you have a rebuild manual to follow? Anybody help you? And how much do they cost you usually?

 

I build my own engines, I have a competent machine shop do the crank grinding, balancing, boring, valve job and anything else that requires a special piece of expensive equipment. I buy all the parts and deliver the hard parts to the machine shop, then assemble it while checking the clearances. I dont get a cheap reman with stock stuff or the cheapest parts possible, I get a well built engine that lasts me a long time and makes plenty of power.

So crate engines never go in anything I own or build. I build my own computers too, it saves money and I can get a faster one for less money than buying it, and I dont have to deal with stuff I dont need or want. Getting a crate engine is pushing the easy button so to speak, and you will get a lump that makes stock power and might last a while, might not. Some remans are better than others.

The first one I went through was a 390 for our 76 F250, my dad did the work and explained the important stuff like torque specs since I was 9. When I built my first 400 Pontiac in 87 it ran hard and I had a pretty decent idea of what was needed to make it run. My Pontiacs run me between $1500 and $3000 to build myself, depending on the parts I put in them, solid roller vs hydraulic cam, forged rods vs stock rods, etc. The 2v Cleveland in the Cougar cost me around $2400 for parts and machine work. I figure I could do a 302 real cheap.

 

oversize pistons will often have the amount oversize stamped into them. There will be a 030 or 060 visible if you look around. Might have to scrape some carbon off to see it, but its there if its been bored.

 

thanks Thump

Yeah I build my own computers too, got tired of buying them and having nothing but crashes.

I also build M1 Garand rifles and AR15 rifles, slip up here and good by body parts.