What do you mean plumbed into the heads?
Sorry new at this.

sparx

 

Some heads have ports that tie into the exhaust. I don't believe these to be 66 heads. I didn't think smog stuff was until 67. You might research where to find head cast numbers and interpret them to find out the year and model they came from.

I have a 302 from a 90 mustang with smog ports at the rear of the head that I blocked off. I cut them out of 3/16 plate and bolted them up with a little RTV.

 

Yes, the entire smog pump can be removed, but be careful. Some states require it to pass smog, don't know in AZ. First and utmost, get a real good penetrating oil for rusty bolts. I've had real good luck with PB Blaster. Plan a day when you're not going to drive the car at least a day or two. Spray (soak) the bolts attaching the tubes to the head the day before and let it sit over-night, and spray again in the morning. Reason, these tube nuts have a tendancy to stick, break, strip, and everything else you can think of. If you don't get them out clean, its a major PITA to fix it, to include, worse case, pulling the head. You can buy the plugs for about $4 a piece. They're specifically designed to fill the cavity, or buy allen head plugs at Homedepot for $6 total.

 

It has "66" in the castings inside the head.

code 6F14 June 14, 1966

 

Groho
Thanks man.
I am now trying to figure out how to get an accurate measurement of the cylinder diameters. Hard to do with a caliper since there is crude at the top and not the right tool for the job. It appears I am .030" over 4", but not sure.

The cylinder walls look great, passenger side. Valves are all gunked up but that is ok.

sparx

 

The Thermactor (smog pump) and diverter are supposed to be where you have the T fitting on the big hoses.

Since that's gone, unless you are an originality bug just remove the injector manifolds and anti-backfire valves, they look pretty mangy anyway. You'll need special plugs to get a good seal on the injector holes, they are machined for the special ferrules, you can't just screw a bolt in there.



This is a 66 289 with the Thermactor system intact. You don't see them much, people tended to rip them off because they "rob horesepower". True- They rob about one or two horsepower, not enough to justify getting out the wrenches to remove it, IMHO. You are already missing most of the parts, so just finish the job.

 

Thanks
Now to find out if the .040 bore as it stands can be made to work since .060 is not recommended.
But the cylinders are not scored, tomorrow I check the drivers side.

 

PB Blaster is AWESOME! If you use it and still have trouble getting the rusted bolts and nuts to break free, I have had good luck with spraying PB on and then heating the bolt or nut with a propane torch. This causes the PB to wick into the threads and makes it a lot easier to get them off. Don't worry a lot about it catching fire. PB is flamable but doesn't "flash" like igniting gasoline. It is pretty slow burning and usually won't stay burning once you take the flame off it. I would still have a fire extinguisher handy just in case though.

 

June is actually fairly late in the year as far as car manufacturers go so those heads could probably actually be considered early '67 heads and still be original for your car. My '67 Fastback was built in April of '66.

 

I think the entire engine is, I have the build tag, need to clean it and figure out how to read it.
jim