Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Hood rust

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 16, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #11  
64to66's Avatar
64to66
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 139
From:
Default

great! thanks for the pics! this doesn't seem too bad. no worse than replacing
quarter panels!
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 03:48 PM
  #12  
64to66's Avatar
64to66
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 139
From:
Default

I decided to keep the original trunk and hood but i have separated the skins from the frames to hit the inside with por15.
here are the questions...

1. what should I use to adhere between the frame work and the skin? seam sealer? is there something specific used for this?

2. the hood hinges are pretty old and have some rust. what's the best way to rehab these? how should they be finished( especially the springs)? would it be better to just buy replacements?

Thanks guys!
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #13  
MetalEd's Avatar
MetalEd
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 404
From: SFV, Calif.
Default

Originally Posted by 64to66
2. the hood hinges are pretty old and have some rust. what's the best way to rehab these? how should they be finished( especially the springs)? would it be better to just buy replacements?
Evapo-Rust http://evaporust.com/
I love this stuff for parts that can be soaked, especially bolts, nuts, screws and springs (only done small ones). You may get away with a gallon for the hinge springs if you use the right container and do them one at a time (maybe 2 if you soak the hinges and all). You can just use it over and over until it's too far gone (I strain it with a paper coffee filter when it gets cloudy.)
Just wire brush them to remove any loose rust, then soak the rusted out pieces overnight, Rinse, Repeat if necessary or to stop "flash " rust and it will be back to metal (no black "primer" coating). Take a look at their web site, pretty much works exactly as it looks. I tossed an 8"x 5/8" bolt that was so rusted through, you would never get a nut on it. I found a new one, so I forgot and left it in for a week, it was completely usable with no rust when I took it out. It does leave a short-time protective coat (I think), so it need to be roughed up to paint. Not acid, non-toxic, biodegradable.. nice!
It'd be nice if they had a 3-5 Gallon Soaking container of it! just noticed, They have a cooling system Cleaner as well??!!!
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 05:18 PM
  #14  
KMatch's Avatar
KMatch
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 446
From: Texas
Default

Originally Posted by MetalEd
You may get away with a gallon for the hinge springs if you use the right container and do them one at a time
Here's a trick for soaking parts shaped like hood springs and such: Find some PVC pipe the part will fit in and get some caps for the pipe. Glue a cap on one end, hold it open end up, drop the part in and let it soak! Works like a charm and you can get pipe to work for many applications. Screw on caps make good storage containers as well - even if buried for questionable reasons.
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 11:14 PM
  #15  
64to66's Avatar
64to66
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 139
From:
Default

Cool product! i will definitely check this stuff out! thanks for the tips guys. what about the finish? same color as car? is the spring painted?
Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #16  
64to66's Avatar
64to66
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 139
From:
Default

Hey PLCDUE, what did you use to glue the frame back to the skin?
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BOB ROME
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
3
Jul 26, 2023 01:54 PM
PaulH2
Members Rides and Car Show Section
20
Jan 31, 2016 09:48 AM
b8checker
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
8
Oct 8, 2015 12:55 PM
Urambo Tauro
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
6
Oct 5, 2015 09:37 PM
b8checker
New Member Area
3
Sep 30, 2015 07:11 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:22 PM.