edelbrock 1406
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 38
From: Nor*Cal
edelbrock 1406
hey guys! I've been working on my 69 Mustang a lot as of late and i have a cable style accelerator linkage with kick down. i have a 302 h.o. with gt-40 heads, accel coil, and a pertronix dizzy with a vacuum advance. I've been able to get the car going with a holley 2bbl from a 72 ford f100, but once i tried to get it going again the next day to get the timing and carb dialed in it wouldn't start so today i decided to take that old one out and drop in a new edelbrock. for the time being i'm using an adapter for the carb 4-2 bbl, i know i know.
but i really want to get the car started and dialed in so i can move forward. how did you guys install yours? what do yours look like? how is your linkage installed? cuz how i have it now it's way taller than the brake pedal. I know my help question isn't very well written hopefully you can make out what i'm tryin to say.
thanks in advance....
but i really want to get the car started and dialed in so i can move forward. how did you guys install yours? what do yours look like? how is your linkage installed? cuz how i have it now it's way taller than the brake pedal. I know my help question isn't very well written hopefully you can make out what i'm tryin to say. thanks in advance....
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
ahh get it, must have happened with the cable installation.
i wouldn't see a reason to change over to cable. I like that rod setup of my mustang. straight forward and easy once there's no play in the connections.
i wouldn't see a reason to change over to cable. I like that rod setup of my mustang. straight forward and easy once there's no play in the connections.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,090
From: Az
Kali, the 69 came with a cable, it's not a "change-over".
The only thing that I can think of that would affect pedal height, (assuming that you maintained the bracket on ther rear of carb), is that it is connected to the wrong location on the carb. There are a couple places it can be put, aren't there?
The only thing that I can think of that would affect pedal height, (assuming that you maintained the bracket on ther rear of carb), is that it is connected to the wrong location on the carb. There are a couple places it can be put, aren't there?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 38
From: Nor*Cal
i did hook it up in the back of the carb, the same way it was on the OE autolite and on the holley. but when we hooked the edlebrock up the pedal was way off. i'm thinking the edlebrock may have to go, but IDK yet....
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 126
From: Ga
Had the same problem when we swapped to a 4bbl. The problem is that the throttle cable "stick-out" (the amount of cable that sticks out from the outer sleeve) is different because of where the bracket mounts. If the new set up requires a longer stick-out, it pulls the accellerator pedal up toward the dash. On ours, about 1" difference in stick-out multiplied to about 3-4 inches of difference in the accel pedal. BE CAREFUL IF YOU DRIVE IT THIS WAY. Ours popped off the accel pedal 4 times just trying to get it home because of the angle it kept the pedal at.
I fixed mine by cutting the cable close to the end that attaches to the carb (BUT LEAVE ENOUGH OF A STUB TO SPLICE ONTO), and spliced a piece of cable about 1-1/4 inches in line to lengthen it. Just make sure you measure carefully to ensure that the splice isn't so close to the outer sleeve/bracket that it hits. If this happens you won't get full travel on the throttle. I used stainless, stranded wire (like for making a fishing rig), and it worked great.
If this didn't work, I was planning to get a new inner cable an re-string it through the old outer sleeve. Last resort was going to be a new cut-to-fit Lokar cable.
Hope this helps.
I fixed mine by cutting the cable close to the end that attaches to the carb (BUT LEAVE ENOUGH OF A STUB TO SPLICE ONTO), and spliced a piece of cable about 1-1/4 inches in line to lengthen it. Just make sure you measure carefully to ensure that the splice isn't so close to the outer sleeve/bracket that it hits. If this happens you won't get full travel on the throttle. I used stainless, stranded wire (like for making a fishing rig), and it worked great.
If this didn't work, I was planning to get a new inner cable an re-string it through the old outer sleeve. Last resort was going to be a new cut-to-fit Lokar cable.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 38
From: Nor*Cal
Had the same problem when we swapped to a 4bbl. The problem is that the throttle cable "stick-out" (the amount of cable that sticks out from the outer sleeve) is different because of where the bracket mounts. If the new set up requires a longer stick-out, it pulls the accellerator pedal up toward the dash. On ours, about 1" difference in stick-out multiplied to about 3-4 inches of difference in the accel pedal. BE CAREFUL IF YOU DRIVE IT THIS WAY. Ours popped off the accel pedal 4 times just trying to get it home because of the angle it kept the pedal at.
I fixed mine by cutting the cable close to the end that attaches to the carb (BUT LEAVE ENOUGH OF A STUB TO SPLICE ONTO), and spliced a piece of cable about 1-1/4 inches in line to lengthen it. Just make sure you measure carefully to ensure that the splice isn't so close to the outer sleeve/bracket that it hits. If this happens you won't get full travel on the throttle. I used stainless, stranded wire (like for making a fishing rig), and it worked great.
If this didn't work, I was planning to get a new inner cable an re-string it through the old outer sleeve. Last resort was going to be a new cut-to-fit Lokar cable.
Hope this helps.
I fixed mine by cutting the cable close to the end that attaches to the carb (BUT LEAVE ENOUGH OF A STUB TO SPLICE ONTO), and spliced a piece of cable about 1-1/4 inches in line to lengthen it. Just make sure you measure carefully to ensure that the splice isn't so close to the outer sleeve/bracket that it hits. If this happens you won't get full travel on the throttle. I used stainless, stranded wire (like for making a fishing rig), and it worked great.
If this didn't work, I was planning to get a new inner cable an re-string it through the old outer sleeve. Last resort was going to be a new cut-to-fit Lokar cable.
Hope this helps.
