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fuel sender?

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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #1  
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dave350
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Default fuel sender?

my fuel float went out on my last week. my gas guage reads emtpy all the time. last time this happen i took the float sender out and found a hole in the float and it filled with guage. my question is does any one knows who makes good fuel sender and should i get a brass float.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dave350
my fuel float went out on my last week. my gas guage reads emtpy all the time. last time this happen i took the float sender out and found a hole in the float and it filled with guage. my question is does any one knows who makes good fuel sender and should i get a brass float.
You replaced it last time or just repaired it? If it was replaced, then it is unlikely that it would go out so soon (most last a decade or 4.). Maybe the electrical connector just came off from your last service or a broken wire from pulling it too tight when re-connecting it? It could break after driving for a while with a stressed, older wire.
You can verify if it is the sending unit or bad wire by disconnecting the wire at the unit and touch it to a good ground while your key is in accessory position. If the gauge moves and you know it was a good connection on the sending unit, then the fault is with the sending unit. Be sure to clean the connector before replacing in case it was a dirty connection.
Sorry I don't have an answer for the float, I didn't see a manufacturer's name when I bought mine (Just unit, no tags or info) and I thought they were all plastic floats now for our units. If your sending unit is good, a new float is really the inexpensive way to go.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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.....

Last edited by Scott H.; Jan 23, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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The only problem I have run into with the plastic floats is if you change your gas cap and 'accidentally' put a non-vented cap on the plastic float will not survive and you will end up replacing your brand new fuel sender just a few weeks after you install it (and drill a hole in your gas cap to work as a vent) ;(
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 08:22 PM
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If you're sure the float sank, get a new brass one. I try to keep proper working senders if I can, because all of the current repros suck, they don't have the right impedance. Glazier Nolan is working on a proper one, but nobody else even cares.
Old Sep 27, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
If you're sure the float sank, get a new brass one. I try to keep proper working senders if I can, because all of the current repros suck, they don't have the right impedance. Glazier Nolan is working on a proper one, but nobody else even cares.
I don't know why you say this. I bought the stainless steel one from Scott Drake for my 65 and it works perfectly. Been installed now for about 3 months and 6 or 7 tanks of gas. Reads the full range. Reads full when full and when empty takes 14 gals to fill up the 15gal tank. I have bought many repro parts that do not fit well or do not work but this one fit and worked fine, was actually BETTER quality than what came out.
Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I don't know why you say this. I bought the stainless steel one from Scott Drake for my 65 and it works perfectly. Been installed now for about 3 months and 6 or 7 tanks of gas. Reads the full range. Reads full when full and when empty takes 14 gals to fill up the 15gal tank. I have bought many repro parts that do not fit well or do not work but this one fit and worked fine, was actually BETTER quality than what came out.
Why? Because Dan Nolan of Glazier Nolan has had to deal with many customer complaints, and has tested the Scott Drake product, and every other supplier, and NONE of them meet factory spec for Ω throughout the E-F range. Upon disassembly, the reason is obvious- poor quality winding of the rheostat.

If yours is working OK for you, great. And if you have read my many posts (over 10,000 here and elsewhere) I'm the first to stick up for good repro products, of which there are many. I'm also the first to condemn crap, and to make a fuel sender unit with no care to the proper electrical value of the rheostat is just stupid, since it's like 1% of the effort involved in tooling the part. I mean really, one of the problems seen was too-large rivets at the ends of the windings, causing the contact to short to F, or fail reach E at the other end. I mean really stupid.

Scott's right about the NOS items, the main drawback is they are getting scarce fast, and are starting to hit $200+.

Last edited by 2+2GT; Sep 27, 2009 at 08:53 AM.
Old Feb 1, 2010 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
Why? Because Dan Nolan of Glazier Nolan has had to deal with many customer complaints, and has tested the Scott Drake product, and every other supplier, and NONE of them meet factory spec for Ω throughout the E-F range. Upon disassembly, the reason is obvious- poor quality winding of the rheostat.

If yours is working OK for you, great. And if you have read my many posts (over 10,000 here and elsewhere) I'm the first to stick up for good repro products, of which there are many. I'm also the first to condemn crap, and to make a fuel sender unit with no care to the proper electrical value of the rheostat is just stupid, since it's like 1% of the effort involved in tooling the part. I mean really, one of the problems seen was too-large rivets at the ends of the windings, causing the contact to short to F, or fail reach E at the other end. I mean really stupid.

Scott's right about the NOS items, the main drawback is they are getting scarce fast, and are starting to hit $200+.
Bringing up an old post from September, but with good reason. My sending unit took a dump and I found the reason. The brass wiper arm in the rheostat wore out and split. It would hang at 1/2 full. I messed with it for a couple of hours yesterday, being I cannot leave broken things alone, but unless I find some thin brass stock and can braze a new arm on, it will be hopeless.
The windings seem to test okay with 10ohms on one end, 85-90ohms on the other and increments inbetween.

I guess I will order another unit and looked at Glazier's. Not only because I trust them, but their prices were lower than local parts stores, which would have to order it anyway.

So 2+2GT, has Fred found a reliable sending unit and which one is the best he has?

Thanks
Scott
Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #9  
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Guys,
I can vouch for the fact that every single unit from Scott Drake is 100% tested across the ohms range. They are also pressure tested and visually inspected. Any claim otherwise is simply not true. To say we "don't care" is as far from the truth as it could be, given the engineering and testing that goes into each unit. We also sell replacement brass floats, should the float be the only problem. Thanks - Tim
Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Drake Enterprises
Guys,
I can vouch for the fact that every single unit from Scott Drake is 100% tested across the ohms range. They are also pressure tested and visually inspected. Any claim otherwise is simply not true. To say we "don't care" is as far from the truth as it could be, given the engineering and testing that goes into each unit. We also sell replacement brass floats, should the float be the only problem. Thanks - Tim
Tim,
I ordered from Glazier Nolan and indeed the Scott Drake that arrived was on spec as I checked it. I did notice however that it was a lot harder to seat than the original I was replacing. I did in fact seat finally and sealed properly, but it was a bit of a pain. I didn't measure but either the diameter is a tad larger or the tabs are in a little different position.
Other than that it looks to be a much better repop than others.



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