Just wondering what kind of clutch you guys would suggest for a 351w ~450hp, T5-z, lightweight billet flywheel, scatter shield and cable clutch.
Car will be street driven depending on weather.
Note: the car is somewhat light weight. Has fiberglass hood, front apron,trunk lid w/ spoiler, deleted seats.

 

Centerforce Dual Friction. Get the one for later model Mustangs that used a cable clutch.

 

Haven't heard many good things about centerforce dual friction

 

Good thing about that center force dual friction clutch it grabs right away great clutch, it worked great in my old setup. Lakewood bell housing will work great, and look into an aluminum flywheel, you can get one through DSS, they are expensive but the light flywheel will put more horse to the rear wheels instead of using that horse to spin that steel flywheel. Get an adjustable clutch quadrant with dual adjustment, so you don't have to get under the car to adjust the clutch cable you can do it right from the fire wall.

 

How does disc material make a difference?
...Anyone know the difference between these two?
http://www.summitracing.com/compare.aspx

 

The only people that ever have issues with the Centerforce clutches are the morons that don't break them in properly. There are a LOT of people that run them behind high power engines on the street every day for years without any issues. That's what I've been running in mine for years, and having had 3 of them I never had a single issue. They take a lot of abuse and work well on the street. Ask in the 5.0 section of this forum, there are a ton of guys that have run them hard with 0 problems.

As far as material, it has an effect on how much heat the clutch will take before it slips, how it wears and how fast it grabs. In the end it comes down to how the particular clutch is designed to work. And the link you have doesn't have the clutches in it.

 

when choosing a clutch, does it make a difference if you have cable clutch?
I was looking at these two:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MC...n/?prefilter=1
and
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CT...n/?prefilter=1

 

Yes, it does. Cable and hydraulic uses a throwout bearing that moves one distance, and the old school z-bar linkage travels a different distance. As a result the pressure plate spring for each type of clutch is designed to be moved a different amount. For a cable or hydraulic clutch you want to buy one for the later model mustangs, the ones you listed are both correct.

They're also both good clutches. Like I said, I've run Centerforce for a long time, but I also have McLeod parts as well in my hydraulic linkage. McLeod is good quality, but tends to be more expensive.

 

I love my McLeod RST. It makes a little noise due to the floater plate, but it really grabs and has an easy pedal effort. It is the only thing that has held up in my car. BTW, you need to talk torque not horsepower with regards to clutches. It is not rpm that slips clutches but rather rotational force. I did a comparison post last year on all the different clutches and their ratings with pros and cons after phone calls to all the different manufacturers. Do a search for "Clutches: The Part, The Myth, The Legend".

 

I ordered the McLeod Super StreetPro clutch. Ups should be dropping it off today. I'll see how it performs later this week. Thanks for the help.
Urban Cowboy that sounds like an interesting threAd. I'll make sure to look that up when I get home later today..thanks!