Our '65 coupe project, so it begins (Lots of pics)
#211
Cowl inner fender brace brackets off.
I decided I will fully replace the upper and lower coal, I first thought I would just try and save the lower cowl, but, I'll replace it fully and it will be good for a long time and I won't have to worry about it.
Lynn
I decided I will fully replace the upper and lower coal, I first thought I would just try and save the lower cowl, but, I'll replace it fully and it will be good for a long time and I won't have to worry about it.
Lynn
#213
Thanks!!
That is correct, the Hobart 140 MIG handler. I got the argon co mix. I'm not sure how many hrs I got on it.
Looking back on my pics I see I have had that tank since at least June of last year, possibly end of May of last year. I have not filled it since. I have done one full rocker inner and outer repair, two wheel house repairs, 2 quarter replacements, one torque box install, and several misc. repairs. I have done a lot of work on it before I needed to have it refilled.
I'm now empty and I need to do my cowl. I was filling my little bottle left and right before and it cost almost twice as much to fill a little bottle then it does the big bottle.
Lynn
That is correct, the Hobart 140 MIG handler. I got the argon co mix. I'm not sure how many hrs I got on it.
Looking back on my pics I see I have had that tank since at least June of last year, possibly end of May of last year. I have not filled it since. I have done one full rocker inner and outer repair, two wheel house repairs, 2 quarter replacements, one torque box install, and several misc. repairs. I have done a lot of work on it before I needed to have it refilled.
I'm now empty and I need to do my cowl. I was filling my little bottle left and right before and it cost almost twice as much to fill a little bottle then it does the big bottle.
Lynn
#214
Excellent call on fixing the hidden damage in the cowl.
In the noreins build post, towards the end, they show the rebuild required behind the door hinge structure. Are you going to look there as well? They had visible evidence of the damage but their paint guy found it when prepping their Mustang.
In the noreins build post, towards the end, they show the rebuild required behind the door hinge structure. Are you going to look there as well? They had visible evidence of the damage but their paint guy found it when prepping their Mustang.
#215
Just don't look at anything around your hinge structure, you really don't want to know or find what's behind it! lol
Good call on the full cowl replacement. I wish we'd have gone that route, yeah you pay up front with the price of the replacement piece, but the repair is a lot more simple and you're better off in the end anyway.
Good call on the full cowl replacement. I wish we'd have gone that route, yeah you pay up front with the price of the replacement piece, but the repair is a lot more simple and you're better off in the end anyway.
#216
Well, I got the full DC cowl with car, so I didn't buy it and it is shame not to use all of it. I was going to just use the top and clean up the bottom inside, but I think a full replacement is better in the long run and I may as well use the full cowl I got.
The thought of splitting the thing open because it is welded together sucks, but it needs to be done so I can prep the inside so it won't rust out and I have to drill holes in it to weld it up anyway. I wonder what rocket scientist who thought of welding it together needs to kicked in the nuts.
Your scaring me on the hinge structure. it looks fine, but I haven't taken the doors off yet either and looks solid on the inside as well.
Lynn
The thought of splitting the thing open because it is welded together sucks, but it needs to be done so I can prep the inside so it won't rust out and I have to drill holes in it to weld it up anyway. I wonder what rocket scientist who thought of welding it together needs to kicked in the nuts.
Your scaring me on the hinge structure. it looks fine, but I haven't taken the doors off yet either and looks solid on the inside as well.
Lynn
Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 07-09-2012 at 09:11 PM.
#217
Hmm. Well do what you feel necessary. I mean, it's e-coated already. You could always spray something through the sides where the openings are. But I guess if the metal isn't prepped right even the toughest rust converters or primer won't adhere properly. Good lesson for us all for the future, buy the pieces seperately when you have the chance.
Yeah...don't mean to scare you on the hinge comment. I remember being excited thinking that was the one good part on our car. Yowzers were we ever wrong. That's why I said don't look at it and do NOT, God forbid, poke around with a screw driver
Yeah...don't mean to scare you on the hinge comment. I remember being excited thinking that was the one good part on our car. Yowzers were we ever wrong. That's why I said don't look at it and do NOT, God forbid, poke around with a screw driver
Last edited by NoReins; 07-10-2012 at 12:23 PM.
#218
So are you saying you wouldn't even open it to prep inside and just leave it as is? I guess it is better rust protected then from the factory now.
I would still have to drill the quadrillion holes to spot weld it in anyway I just figured I'd drill out the factory spot welds and open her up.
Lynn
I would still have to drill the quadrillion holes to spot weld it in anyway I just figured I'd drill out the factory spot welds and open her up.
Lynn
#219
IF you cannot stand not doing something with it, which I would tend to share the same feelings, I would only think about spraying black epoxy in there as best as possible. No, I would not pull it apart. Pulling it apart only sets yourself up for a whole lot of work as well as the chance that you do not weld it back together perfectly. It's e-coated already which is already worlds ahead of how they came factory, and really are you going leave the car outside in a monsoon over and over again ...I don't know. It's your call. It sure makes for an interesting topic to say the least. The only thing I wouldn't do is use chassis saver or por 15 or kbs in there because it isn't rust and it won't bond properly. Even without being able to scuff the metal for the epoxy, it's meant for non rusted metal and it will like it over a rust converter.