302 to a stroker 347
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 42
From:
302 to a stroker 347
I dont know much about the stroker kits, but i was just wondering what everyone thought about them, i have a 69 mustang coupe and was wanting more horsepower, would the stroker kit be a good thing to do, im willing to spend up to 2K and would like to get my stang in the 350 HP range...thanks a bunch
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 113
From: Kentucky
RE: 302 to a stroker 347
there is a couple of articles in the 'tech' section of mustang monthly's website on the pros/cons of a 302/347 versus 351/408 conversion.
i recognize your budget issues, as i am pondering the exact issue. i am very lucky to have a father in law with a salvage yard and just came across a 351w with trans [aod].
do some looking. i am confident the 351 could be found for about 500-600 depending on the use, etc. you could get a core for around 150-200 in central ky. with that core you could put a bout 2200 into the 'great' parts for a 408 build up and be somewhere between 450 to 500.
not much more money for alot more power.
i am no expert on this, but the pros for the 351 seem to be more reliability and more cubes with out streatching the limit of the internals.
i hear great things about the 347's and that may be the route to go, but i have available 351 w/o alot of costs.
another thing my mechanic told me is that with good AFR heads and good cam, my current set up-msd, alum intake, alum edlb carb, dual exhaust-that 350 hp could be acheived.
alot of options and i hope this helps. check out the web sites and google the stroker in both 347 and 408.
good luck.
i recognize your budget issues, as i am pondering the exact issue. i am very lucky to have a father in law with a salvage yard and just came across a 351w with trans [aod].
do some looking. i am confident the 351 could be found for about 500-600 depending on the use, etc. you could get a core for around 150-200 in central ky. with that core you could put a bout 2200 into the 'great' parts for a 408 build up and be somewhere between 450 to 500.
not much more money for alot more power.
i am no expert on this, but the pros for the 351 seem to be more reliability and more cubes with out streatching the limit of the internals.
i hear great things about the 347's and that may be the route to go, but i have available 351 w/o alot of costs.
another thing my mechanic told me is that with good AFR heads and good cam, my current set up-msd, alum intake, alum edlb carb, dual exhaust-that 350 hp could be acheived.
alot of options and i hope this helps. check out the web sites and google the stroker in both 347 and 408.
good luck.
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: 302 to a stroker 347
Your 302 would do 350 hp no problem.
What are you looking for? just saying "I want 350 HP" doesn't really explain what you want. Unless you just want to be able to say "...I've got 350 HP".
What do you want your car to do? That's the real question.
And this makes all the difference in whether you build 302 or 351, stroked or stock.
Horse power is just one small measurement in a much bigger equation.
What are you looking for? just saying "I want 350 HP" doesn't really explain what you want. Unless you just want to be able to say "...I've got 350 HP".
What do you want your car to do? That's the real question.
And this makes all the difference in whether you build 302 or 351, stroked or stock.
Horse power is just one small measurement in a much bigger equation.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 42
From:
RE: 302 to a stroker 347
Ya i no it was kind of a wide ranged question, but i was just throwing out a number to get some ideas on what i could do to get it there, i dont need 350 horses..i just want a car that is a cruiser and i can street drive and have fun with, i want a car that makes people think, wow thats fast!
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
Cool, that's a great start!
What have you got so far? Auto or manual, gears, tires, exhaust?
It takes looks, and the right sound to make people go "Whoa, dude that things fast!!!" (or what ever they say today).
A set of 3.55 to 3.70 gears, wheels that flash as they turn (like polished torque thrust) a bright but deep color and a rake that sets the front low without setting the rear too high (rims and tire profiles).
The sound has to be throaty but have a metalic sound. Exhaust plumbed all the way to the rear valance (two chamber flow masters under the rear seat, and a solid lifter cam, with a lopy idle. That way you get the engine coming and the exhaust going. It's totally a perseptual thing. Then you want the lightest flywheel/torque converter you can find, so the engine snaps when you tap the gas.
As far as tires go, you need something that will spin when cold, but hook up once heated (just in case you really have to race someone). And you have to have some kind of limited slip rear. Single wheel burnouts are for dweebs and wanna-be's.
AND, you never, ever, ever... do a burn out while going around a corner. That's a real poser trick. You should be able to roll around the turn and once completely straight with a about 25 feet for effect then you stand on it, and smoke 'em up to the posted speed limit, then just back off and cruise (kind of like you see a top fueler do a burnout).
Now that will have all the parking lot weenies drooling.
Of course all this is done on a closed course with a professional driver. We would never want to condone exhibition of speed or wreckless driving in a public place.
OK so let's hear what'cha got so we can help you get there. [8D]
It takes looks, and the right sound to make people go "Whoa, dude that things fast!!!" (or what ever they say today).
A set of 3.55 to 3.70 gears, wheels that flash as they turn (like polished torque thrust) a bright but deep color and a rake that sets the front low without setting the rear too high (rims and tire profiles).
The sound has to be throaty but have a metalic sound. Exhaust plumbed all the way to the rear valance (two chamber flow masters under the rear seat, and a solid lifter cam, with a lopy idle. That way you get the engine coming and the exhaust going. It's totally a perseptual thing. Then you want the lightest flywheel/torque converter you can find, so the engine snaps when you tap the gas.
As far as tires go, you need something that will spin when cold, but hook up once heated (just in case you really have to race someone). And you have to have some kind of limited slip rear. Single wheel burnouts are for dweebs and wanna-be's.
AND, you never, ever, ever... do a burn out while going around a corner. That's a real poser trick. You should be able to roll around the turn and once completely straight with a about 25 feet for effect then you stand on it, and smoke 'em up to the posted speed limit, then just back off and cruise (kind of like you see a top fueler do a burnout).
Now that will have all the parking lot weenies drooling.
Of course all this is done on a closed course with a professional driver. We would never want to condone exhibition of speed or wreckless driving in a public place.
OK so let's hear what'cha got so we can help you get there. [8D]
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 42
From:
RE: Cool, that's a great start!
Manual 3 spd., needs new tires, AND exhaust...lol...not much done to it yet, trying to come up with a plan, but ya those torque thrust II's where what i was thinking of getting, i no a guy at the local gas station that can get them from american racing and save me a couple 100. But ya my mustang is pretty much stock. And you know i would never try any of those stunts on a public road
...
thanks a bunch
...thanks a bunch
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: Cool, that's a great start!
It is a V-8 right?
Well you've got the basics. You can pick up a T-5 w/bellhousing out of a turbo coup or V-6 for about $100.00 with a 3.35 first gear that will get you the off line performance to "lite-'em-up". Later you can add the high nickle gears and the girdle to handle extra power, and the traction. But you're going to need a posi unit. Again, I'd be looking through the wrecking yards and swap meets, not to mention anybodies garage that has hot rod stuff. Never know what you'll find. Even if it's just a spool to stuff in your stock rear end. Then I'd look for a line lock to put on the front end. You can input just enough drag to spin up the rears pretty good. Takes practice.
A good set of Tri-Y's into 2.5" pipes (no bigger or you lose bottom end torque). Stuff a nice Comp-Cams solid lifter cam in, don't go too big, again you need to keep your low to mid range, anything bigger and you don't have the breathing with stock heads. Basically you make life more dificult.
Stay with the stock 4100 Autolite 4V. If you have a 2V then go ahead and get a dual plane manifold but stay with a 500cfm carb. That's plenty.
So basically done right, $2,000.00 gets you wheels and tires, a 5 speed and posi. Headers, cam and a 4V carb/manifold, a new exhaust and a line lock. You'll be sitting a little under 300 HP, but what you'll be able to do with that as a base platform will blow away a stock 3 speed mustang with a 350 horse 302.
Make sense???
Well you've got the basics. You can pick up a T-5 w/bellhousing out of a turbo coup or V-6 for about $100.00 with a 3.35 first gear that will get you the off line performance to "lite-'em-up". Later you can add the high nickle gears and the girdle to handle extra power, and the traction. But you're going to need a posi unit. Again, I'd be looking through the wrecking yards and swap meets, not to mention anybodies garage that has hot rod stuff. Never know what you'll find. Even if it's just a spool to stuff in your stock rear end. Then I'd look for a line lock to put on the front end. You can input just enough drag to spin up the rears pretty good. Takes practice.
A good set of Tri-Y's into 2.5" pipes (no bigger or you lose bottom end torque). Stuff a nice Comp-Cams solid lifter cam in, don't go too big, again you need to keep your low to mid range, anything bigger and you don't have the breathing with stock heads. Basically you make life more dificult.
Stay with the stock 4100 Autolite 4V. If you have a 2V then go ahead and get a dual plane manifold but stay with a 500cfm carb. That's plenty.
So basically done right, $2,000.00 gets you wheels and tires, a 5 speed and posi. Headers, cam and a 4V carb/manifold, a new exhaust and a line lock. You'll be sitting a little under 300 HP, but what you'll be able to do with that as a base platform will blow away a stock 3 speed mustang with a 350 horse 302.
Make sense???
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 42
From:
RE: Cool, that's a great start!
Ya its a V8, and all that helped out a bunch, 100 bucks you sure thats all for a T-5 and 3.35 gear, that sounds pretty cheap. Ya i have started to realize horsepower isnt everything when restoring your car, getting off the line faster would be nice, thanks for all the info.
[IMG]local://upfiles/19469/F631FDCA0C33400998D56E5F3D4614CA.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/19469/F631FDCA0C33400998D56E5F3D4614CA.jpg[/IMG]
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
scrounge around the wrecking yards
Everybody wants T-5's out of V8 Mustangs. To start off you don't need a high torque model. Remember Ford spec'd this for 100,000 miles! So unless you're a ham fisted moron (which I'm thinking you are not!) this transmission will live happily with your engine until you really start pumping it up, and working on traction for the rear end.
You'll also need the appropriate bell housing. Probably cheaper to get the T-5 bell housing at the wrecking yard as well. You can make the adapter block to fit your stock T.O. fork. And you'll need the Yoke to go with it (again do some research and you'll find this is readily available at wrecking yards on the cheap). The mount you can either buy or make. I'll bet if you work it right you could do the whole thing for $400.00. $50.00 for a bell housing $50.00 for a yoke, $160.00 for a mount $10.00 pilot bearing, and $5.00 for a block of steel to make your T.O. fork adapter. That leaves you $125.00 for the transmission. I think you'll find it's do-able.
I just put a T5z in with a 6 cylinder (bought the z version as this car is getting a pretty nasty V8 down the road a bit). The difference in power and acceleration was night and day! and that's with a 2.95:1 first gear. I can only imagine (well actually I've driven GT mustangs so I know) how well it would run behind your V8.
Anyway's something to think on.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
You'll also need the appropriate bell housing. Probably cheaper to get the T-5 bell housing at the wrecking yard as well. You can make the adapter block to fit your stock T.O. fork. And you'll need the Yoke to go with it (again do some research and you'll find this is readily available at wrecking yards on the cheap). The mount you can either buy or make. I'll bet if you work it right you could do the whole thing for $400.00. $50.00 for a bell housing $50.00 for a yoke, $160.00 for a mount $10.00 pilot bearing, and $5.00 for a block of steel to make your T.O. fork adapter. That leaves you $125.00 for the transmission. I think you'll find it's do-able.
I just put a T5z in with a 6 cylinder (bought the z version as this car is getting a pretty nasty V8 down the road a bit). The difference in power and acceleration was night and day! and that's with a 2.95:1 first gear. I can only imagine (well actually I've driven GT mustangs so I know) how well it would run behind your V8.
Anyway's something to think on.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.