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electrical gremlin from hell

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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #31  
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Gun Jam
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so you're telling me you remove one of the battery cables and stuck the test light to the post and the other end to the connector on the cable...and it lit up?

It went dark when you removed the wire from the alt?

-Gun
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #32  
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that is exactly what i am saying
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #33  
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Your alt has an internal volt regulator correct? It must be pulling a load for some reason either its internally faulty or some other device such is pulling current through the reg and once the connection at the alt is open that device can no longer pull through the reg.

Maybe you should unplug your amps/ stereo and try again with the alt hooked back up

-Gun
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 03:31 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Gun Jam
Your alt has an internal volt regulator correct? It must be pulling a load for some reason either its internally faulty or some other device such is pulling current through the reg and once the connection at the alt is open that device can no longer pull through the reg.

Maybe you should unplug your amps/ stereo and try again with the alt hooked back up

-Gun
+1 Could be something as simple as the stereo memory connection that is causing you to have a drawn since that is supposed to be connected hot all the time.
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 11:34 AM
  #35  
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I bet its a bigger device than the stereo memory mine only draws .02 amp. I dont think thats enough to light the bulb.

If we knew how many watts the test light bulb was and if it looked full bright or say half bright we could calculate the amp draw...although the bulb also acts as a resistor...hummm

-Gun
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #36  
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the test light is one of those cheap $3 units that came with my travel tool kit. The light also lights up very dimly. Its not a big draw. The draw is such that if I let the car sit for a couple of days the car needs to turn over a few times before it will fire up. If I let the car sit for a week it will take a good 4-5 seconds or more to crank and fire.

The stereo was previously wired incorrectly to a power source that did not provide continuity while the car was off. That was corrected a couple weeks back at the last shop I took it to who hooked it up to the cigarette lighter wire which does keep the connection hot at all times. This change has not caused any other difference in the behavior of the electrical system.
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #37  
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are you running an amp and do you think the trigger is hooked up properly (blue wire)? Is is possible that the amp is not shutting down and can you easily remove the power cable from it and the stereo?
I think one of these is the source of the current drain....or the glove box light.

-Gun
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #38  
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My guess is that the capacitor(s) in the amp(s) are trying to charge. Unhooking it may help with the test.
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #39  
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No amp. Just a stereo deck and 4 speakers. Two front speakers in the kick panels and 2 6x9's in the rear deck. All speakers have been installed for years. No glove box light, never had one.
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #40  
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You got the right idea by trying to isolate systems..

Maybe you could try popping fuses out and see if that opens the circuit. That would at least help somewhat to localize the problem.



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