I replaced my clutch with a friend who knew how 3-4 years ago but my clutch is now out again. I had to adjust the clutch extension every 4-6 months because It would get to loose. Anyway I moved and I dont' have that friend to help me and I got it quoted at 500 bones from the local shop. When I fixed it before I did all the work he just told me what to do. But I don't remeber the steps exactly and I don't want to break anything. Is there a manual somewhere or do you guys suggest I don't even mess around trying to do it in my garage?

 

The question is do you feel comfortable doing it? If the answer is yes then I would say go for it. It is not that tough. The hardest part is getting the trans stabbed back into the bell housing once the new clutch is done. But $500 bones is not that bad a price if they are supplying the parts.

 

Get the Factory Service Manual. It was written in such detail all you need is the book and a good toolbox.

Until you have the book, don't waste time trying, and DON'T get Chiltons or Haynes from the local parts store, they are junk.

 

http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=2555&CATID=21

I had to change mine last year. I never changed one in my life. Like everything else with my car, I just dove in head first. I used the link above to do mine step by step.

I had to remove the headers, starter and drive shaft to start.

I had the car jacked up in four points about one foot from the ground, loosend up the cowel and removed the linkage. Removing the transmission, I ended up dropping it on my arm...ouch...make sure that you have some oil to replace the old oil which will be leaking out the back wear the drive shaft goes in. Having a friend around helps too. I had some crazy return-from-Iraq-crazy-special-forces-guy helping me...man, what a day. I think he was working against me but we got it done.

My clutch and pressure plate only costed 125 dollars, but that was from Auto Zone and I have a military discount and they think that I own a Mustang shop or something so I get that discount. I think two bottles of 80 oil were like 10 dollars total. I replaced my header gaskets too just for the hell of it, I hate putting old used stuff back on.

When you put it back together, don't forget to use the clutch allignment tool. I also removed the cowl from the transmission and put them back on seperately which helped because I was by myself.

I took pictures of everything and then layed it out in order that I removed from my car. The hardest part of the whole operation was putting my linkage back together. I had some help from this site.

I hope this helps.

James

 

you can buy a plastic plug to go into the rear of the transmission to keep the oil from leaking out. you might can pick up an old front shaft at the boneyard to use as an alignment tool. or you can buy a plastic one from a parts house, but you gotta have one to get the clutch lined up. just start asking questions here and i am sure you will get all the info you need. good luck

 

This is certainly something you can do yourself with the right tools, espescially since you have done it before. But, wow, $500 is CHEAP from a shop. Even if they are only charging you labor. If you do it yourself be sure to get your flywheel ground or you will have chatter problems with the new clutch assembly. Most quality clutch kits will have a clutch alignment tool in them.

 

True- I have used the kits from GN, and they had the plate, disc, release bearing, and a plastic alignment tool (you have to add a pilot bushing or bearing of your choice) although I'll admit I like to use an old input shaft as an alignment tool.

 

$500 is cheap? I mean how long could it possibly take to R & R a trans in a classic mustang? Especially on a hoist, I could have that car out of there in less than an hour and a half that's including turning the flywheel.

Chatter does not come from a lack of turning the flywheel. Clutch chatter is caused by either a weak pressure plate spring or contamination on the friction surface. Unless you had some sort of serious issue with a warped flywheel, turning it is unnecessary. Simply remove the glaze (shine) from it with some sandpaper working from the center outwards. By sanding it in this fashion you not only restore a good gripping surface but since the micro-sratches will be at a direct 90* angle from the rotation of the clutch, it'll provide much more "bite". I did this on my old '79 mustang 5.0L, it had enough grip that it actually started putting micro-cracks through the stock flywheel. You could see light through it. My buddy noticed them after I sold the motor to him and showed me.

 

Wrong, Wrong, Wrong. This pisses me off. I am an ASE Certified tech and have been doing this stuff for a living for 20 years. Giving information like is not right. It doesn't matter what YOU do to YOUR stuff, it's absolutely irresponsible to give a novice ****ty information like this. If you aren't going to tell them the CORRECT way to do it, don't say anything at all. Yes, contamination will ALSO cause chatter but so will a flywheel that is not turned. And, yes, $500 is cheap for a shop. So what if you can do it in an hour. That just means you make good money if you worked flat rate.

 

look at it this way, if you have a second car and can get around and not worry about having the stang running come monday for work, then do it yourself. If your time is limited, pay the shop. Can you do it yourself. . .absolutely!