That's a nice mild upgrade cam, not nearly as aggressive as the C3OZ-6250-C 289HP cam, or it's hydraulic cousin, the C9OZ-6250-C.

 

thumpin plays GTA?!
but no i'm about as up to date as nintendo 64, and a sega, GTA 2 at best.

alpha= baddddd asssss, awesome, the best, aggressive, mean, etc etc

 

That's not just a poster engine in my sig ,
even though it looks like one

 

Ya I play GTA, I have SA and IV on the PC, Im not a console type. I have big freakin hands and they dont fit the buttons and stuff. I have the first edition San Andreas and I can mod it, so I have the cars changed to cool stuff like GTOs, Chevelles, Mustangs, and whatnot. 40 year old car nuts play video games too man, I was in the military and we had plenty of down time on some deployments. I got pretty good at Gran Turismo back in 2001 when I was in Kuwait. After 9/11 no planes flew for a month or so, and since my job was with planes we had nothing to do. So I learned to play chess and got good at video games.

 

I know I am coming in late here but the cam you spec above will probably prove to be quite mild but with some noticable idle quality and good torque off the line, the LCA on the Speed Pro CS1217R is 112 - it would be considered a stage 2 or 3 cam (depending on how it is timed at install) and would be an awesome street cam in the 1500-4000 RPM range, where most street driving is done.

Knowing that, matching a cam to your car is more of an effort than just pulling some specs and getting the green light from your internet buds... There is a process for selecting components that will give you a winning combo, even if you don't race it. If you just want a decent streetable cam there are hundreds that will generally fit that bill, if you want to match a cam to your ride sharpen your pencil, get out our calculator and pull up a comfy chair - it is a process, not an event.

If someone just wants to bump up their grind I suggest they at least find true TDC on their engine and degree the cam in to suit your needs, that way you can position the torque curve within around 175-200 RPM in your intended powerband essentially optimizing WHEN you make greatest torque - pretty useful process IMO

Keep in mind, changing your cam involves pulling your waterpump, radiator, intake, etc - make the effort worthwhile - research the heck out of it before turning a single bolt loose!

Best of luck and as usual, make sure you are having fun doing it!

 

You're pretty brave, Thumpin. If I had a 16yr old daughter, I wouldn't let her drive a V8 fourth gen. My roommate has/had a '97 WS6. Fastest car I've ever driven and loads of fun. You'd think a 23yr old would be smart enough to drive safe. He ran it into a pole doing a burnout 200 feet away from our old apartment. Sober, even.

 

No offense, but i built the motor you see in my sig, from a block up. I know what it takes to do a cam swap. =/

 

Gotcha, sorry to offend you Joe

 

oh, none taken, honestly,
i'm just proud as hell of the motor lol

 

Eh she has the speed bug but she is smart, smarter than I am in some ways. When we get the chance she will go to the drag strip with me and learn to drive under power. Probably with a car we build just for that, also a car in a big parking lot covered in ice so she can learn to drive sideways without bending anything.

Oh and Joe, you should be proud of it. Im proud of every engine, transmission, or entire car I build. That is the best part of doing the work yourself, knowing that you can do it when others cant or wont. Pride in workmanship, its part of delayed gratification and putting in the time and effort rather than 'buy it now' instant gratification. It looks nice, even with the shiny stuff.