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Bending white metal (headlight buckets)?

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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 08:43 AM
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Default Bending white metal (headlight buckets)?

Headlight buckets, the same metal as the quarter panel extension caps
(Cast/White Metal). Can it be safely bent back into shape without breaking it if I apply some heat to it? Not glowing hot since it would burn it up, just try to warm/soften it up a little?
Mine are cracked/broken in several places and I need to bend them back to fit right after straightening the body metal (grill & Fenders). I am afraid they will crack and break more if I try to bend them at all (or put them back on the car now), but if heat would help to bend them back to get the pieces to align, I can apply a little JB Weld or even an epoxy putty. It would repair right up.
Replacement is not an option since I have been searching for quite a while with several dealers and automotive swapmeets. When available, the price of a 64.5 one is insane. (Really insane for a used part!) Don't want to go with 65 parts yet (not after you guys talked me into keeping the 64.5 unique)
Old Dec 5, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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I would try CJ pony parts to see if they have an original. I doubt you would find specific 64, but 65-66. That is a pretty inconspicuous piece, personally I would not think twice about going repro.
Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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keep an eye out on craigs list.
Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalEd
Headlight buckets, the same metal as the quarter panel extension caps
(Cast/White Metal). Can it be safely bent back into shape without breaking it if I apply some heat to it? Not glowing hot since it would burn it up, just try to warm/soften it up a little?
Mine are cracked/broken in several places and I need to bend them back to fit right after straightening the body metal (grill & Fenders). I am afraid they will crack and break more if I try to bend them at all (or put them back on the car now), but if heat would help to bend them back to get the pieces to align, I can apply a little JB Weld or even an epoxy putty. It would repair right up.
Replacement is not an option since I have been searching for quite a while with several dealers and automotive swapmeets. When available, the price of a 64.5 one is insane. (Really insane for a used part!) Don't want to go with 65 parts yet (not after you guys talked me into keeping the 64.5 unique)
Well, last things first. "Insanity" would only apply if the early buckets were thick on the ground. Since they are really, really, really, really, really, really, really hard to find, they are worth what people are willing to pay for them. And what people willing to pay is $125 for ratty ones, and twice that for good ones. They are not reproduced, never were, and probably never will be, Selling one for, say $50, would be insanity.

I have had excellent results forming cast white metal parts back to shape. Even without heating, you can get some done, and if you heat them up a few hundred degrees (which makes leather welding gloves mandatory) you can do even more. I suggest you practice on an old junk piece first, since the 64 buckets are so hard to come by.

Originally Posted by noroof66
I doubt you would find specific 64, but 65-66. That is a pretty inconspicuous piece, personally I would not think twice about going repro.
Actually it's pretty conspicuous, and there is no repro.


Last edited by 2+2GT; Dec 5, 2009 at 02:44 PM.
Old Dec 5, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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The worst part of the repro headlight buckets is the sucky fit - at least with the ones I have seen
Old Dec 5, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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$45 for repair kit, $115 replacement at CJ Pony. I would not call that conspicuous if you are having trouble finding one, but your choice. Be sure to use your old trim trim and you should be fine.

http://sitesearch.cjponyparts.com/se...t&search_btn=+

Last edited by noroof66; Dec 5, 2009 at 06:03 PM.
Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
And what people willing to pay is $125 for ratty ones, and twice that for good ones. They are not reproduced, never were, and probably never will be, Selling one for, say $50, would be insanity.

I have had excellent results forming cast white metal parts back to shape. Even without heating, you can get some done, and if you heat them up a few hundred degrees (which makes leather welding gloves mandatory) you can do even more. I suggest you practice on an old junk piece first, since the 64 buckets are so hard to come by.
Insane, I meant a larger well known Mustang Shop/supplier here in LA offered to get me the right one for $400 and $600 if I wanted both!! Other prices have been lower, but nothing close to $125. I would be happy to shell out about $100 for one!

The message that mentioned the repair kit, if it was only broken there, I would go for it. This one is cracked and bent in 3 places. The small strip that the repair kit connects to is no longer on the bucket. So that is not an option.
The 65 buckets would work If I did not want it to look like a 64.5. They are very hard to find and when I do, they want insane amounts for them.

Thanks 2+2, I am going to try bending it back and maybe try JB weld on the cracks...If I can get the pieces to line up without snapping off... I'll try softening it with heat. For the missing part, just going to eye-ball it and mold a piece of epoxy putty, grinding till it matches the look and fit, then paint till I can find an affordable replacement.
Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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Put it in the oven on about 350 degrees to heat it up. If the piece that is missing is good on the other one, you can use modeling clay to make a mold of it and recast it.
Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:45 AM
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mine are shot also i was planing on using these
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...mp_buckets.htm
however i did not realize that this was another difference w/64, but i am not that concerent about keeping OE cause my pipe dream doesnt keep the 170, of course pipe dreams could be crushed by budget, n keepn that enging would b cheeper
Old Dec 6, 2009 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by hiboostwoody
Put it in the oven on about 350 degrees to heat it up. If the piece that is missing is good on the other one, you can use modeling clay to make a mold of it and recast it.
Exactly. And the upper-inner corner that "always" breaks off, even on the repros (which were a little too accurate in this regard) can be repaired with this kit, which is intended to epoxy in place.




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