what does it cost and how much work is it to put power steering in a non power steering car I was looking at buying a 1968 coup. The guy selling it said it also has disk breaks but not power disk breaks? What does that mean?

 

Power Disc BRAKES have a power booster which makes it easier to brake Manual Disc Brakes do not have a power booster

 

If the front steering (centerlink, tie rods, idler arm, etc.) has been replaced recently I'd just change the idler to a roller idler arm and see if that's easy enough to turn. Many prefer the manual steering to power due to possible leaks in the PS system and 'overpowered' feeling of some PS systems. The downside is that the manual steering has slower response (turns to lock) with a 22:1 gearbox, the PS cars came with 16:1. You can change to a 16:1 box but slow speed turning will be a little more difficult, you can remedy this somewhat with a larger steering wheel (15" if you have a 14").

There are a lot of parts to add for PS - gearbox, PS centerlink, idler, pitman?, pump & mounting bracket, control valve, power cylinder, hoses, etc. I think you'd be looking at ~$1K to add this stuff new or rebuilt as adding used parts would be a waste of time as they'll just leak or be misadjusted.
Not to knock PS, I have it and like it after some tweaking (all rebuilt parts, new hoses, larger pump pulley to lower assist, etc.) but if I started with manual I would have just added the roller idler arm and changed the box to a 16:1. I think some manual came 16:1, you can get the tag # off the gearbox and decipher it.

Many also prefer manual disc to power disc since it gives more 'feedback' just as manual steering does and you can modulate them better than pwr. brakes. I would drive it first before changing this also. Changeing to pwr brakes would require a booster, different MC, different pedal at a min. ~$400. This isn't that hard to add later.
Some prefer PB since it's closer feeling to their newer vehicle and you don't have to apply as much pressure. If anyone else will drive the car (wife, kids) you may want to conv. to PB so it doesn't feel 'harder' to apply the brakes. I'm also installing PB but had 4wh. manual drum stock.

I wouldn't let either of these stop you from buying a car that's in good shape (no rust, good paint) as these are cheaper to change later than body work.
Here's a few good sites to give you some ideas and explainations:
POWER/ MANUAL STEERING
http://www.stangerssite.com/
SUSPENSION BASICS
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
ROLLER IDLER, PERCHES, ETC.
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/

Jon

 

Power steering, why the hell would you want that. Man up and just turn the wheel.

 

Interesting. the 67-73 Mustang was not available with manual disc brakes, so something is up here. To buy a complete OEM PS system ready to install, you'll spend $900-something.

 

altho i agree with what you are saying for a street car, i want to make my car an eventual track/drift car so powersteering would be easier for the quick corners

 

You original NON Power Steering car is a 19 to 1 Car, more than likely a SNB D Box. No Boxes were 22 to 1, these are Misprints in the Overly reprinted, reprinted manuals.

These boxes can be used as cores on the SMB K Boxes (SMB K). "Power Steering" Boxes.

The Cost of a Original, Non Leaking System will be in the $1200.00 range.

Updated, New, Rebuilt Original Power Steering systems Function Excellent, Do Not leak, and add value to your classic.

Dan

www.chockostangclassicmustang.com

 

My mistake, Dan would know better than I and now that I search I see the slower boxes were 19:1, I probably picked that up in a bad misprint as stated.

Just as a footnote I had my early '67 gearbox converted to a short output shaft so I could change out my 'spear-o-matic column for a '68-'69 collapseable unit, if you're into 'while you're at it' things.
Jon

 

Rack and Pinion ftw