Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Body Soldering

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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #11  
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64.5stanger
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good idea on removing panel-panel lines, awhile back i was tryn to think of a way to eliminate the quarter panel-extension was thinkn seam sealer @ the time, don't know why lead skiped my mind, I will likely be keepn door handles but eliminating the antenna, hoping to get a amplified/ power ant and fiting behind the fender.
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 05:59 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 64.5stanger
good idea on removing panel-panel lines, awhile back i was tryn to think of a way to eliminate the quarter panel-extension was thinkn seam sealer @ the time, don't know why lead skiped my mind, I will likely be keepn door handles but eliminating the antenna, hoping to get a amplified/ power ant and fiting behind the fender.
Nice...yea I did away with my antenna a long time ago..I installed a power one actually in the rear quarter panel, but that will be delteted too. I generally wont have much use for the radio(even though there will be a nice setup in the car) as the sound of spooling turbos and external wastegates is much better
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 06:12 PM
  #13  
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You cannot use Lead to cover the headlight bucket and rear quarter extensions as they are pot metal. Lead will not stick to them no matter what you do.

Todays fillers are good if not put on to thick or subjected to movement, do your patches with metal welded in and cover them with a thin layer of filler and be done with it.
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by kevink1955
You cannot use Lead to cover the headlight bucket and rear quarter extensions as they are pot metal. Lead will not stick to them no matter what you do.

Todays fillers are good if not put on to thick or subjected to movement, do your patches with metal welded in and cover them with a thin layer of filler and be done with it.
I think I recall those being a different metal, so yea the lead might not work...but i may still use it on certain things. A good filler it is then if I "delete" those seams.
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 10:37 PM
  #15  
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im not too woried aboot panel lines, i am fo sho ly deleting the antenna any one done this. I know there are car/trucks out ther w/amplified ant( wire wraped) any one know bout hooking these up. thinking bout puting classic radio w/usb or mp3 hookup
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #16  
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 01:54 AM
  #17  
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also ... dont you need to remove the headlight bucket if you ever want to replace the headlight?
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 05:23 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 65rangoon
also ... dont you need to remove the headlight bucket if you ever want to replace the headlight?
On the 67-68's you can remove the front retaining ring then 3 attaching screws and it pops out.
Old Mar 26, 2010 | 10:01 PM
  #19  
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Be aware that the non lead solder melting point is almost twice that of lead. Something to consider if your just learning how to do it. Sounds good to use non lead as everyone is scared of it but you will be putting that much more heat into the panel. Lead is much easier to work because you can reheat it fairly easy.

Lead is not gonna make you fall over dead on the spot--just DO NOT sand it. Heck if you fish you have been exposed to more lead that you ever will when doing a seam. File it down and then spread cold filler over it. If you sand lead then it can be breathed in or absorbed thru the skin. Wear a mask and rubber gloves too just for extra security.
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 12:37 AM
  #20  
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ill still suggest an alum based body filler its more corrosion resistant....



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