Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Body Soldering

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-10-2009, 10:38 AM
  #11  
64.5stanger
2nd Gear Member
 
64.5stanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: minnesota
Posts: 233
Default

good idea on removing panel-panel lines, awhile back i was tryn to think of a way to eliminate the quarter panel-extension was thinkn seam sealer @ the time, don't know why lead skiped my mind, I will likely be keepn door handles but eliminating the antenna, hoping to get a amplified/ power ant and fiting behind the fender.
64.5stanger is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 05:59 PM
  #12  
BlackFlame
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
BlackFlame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N Y
Posts: 131
Default

Originally Posted by 64.5stanger
good idea on removing panel-panel lines, awhile back i was tryn to think of a way to eliminate the quarter panel-extension was thinkn seam sealer @ the time, don't know why lead skiped my mind, I will likely be keepn door handles but eliminating the antenna, hoping to get a amplified/ power ant and fiting behind the fender.
Nice...yea I did away with my antenna a long time ago..I installed a power one actually in the rear quarter panel, but that will be delteted too. I generally wont have much use for the radio(even though there will be a nice setup in the car) as the sound of spooling turbos and external wastegates is much better
BlackFlame is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 06:12 PM
  #13  
kevink1955
 
kevink1955's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 21
Default

You cannot use Lead to cover the headlight bucket and rear quarter extensions as they are pot metal. Lead will not stick to them no matter what you do.

Todays fillers are good if not put on to thick or subjected to movement, do your patches with metal welded in and cover them with a thin layer of filler and be done with it.
kevink1955 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 06:47 PM
  #14  
BlackFlame
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
BlackFlame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N Y
Posts: 131
Default

Originally Posted by kevink1955
You cannot use Lead to cover the headlight bucket and rear quarter extensions as they are pot metal. Lead will not stick to them no matter what you do.

Todays fillers are good if not put on to thick or subjected to movement, do your patches with metal welded in and cover them with a thin layer of filler and be done with it.
I think I recall those being a different metal, so yea the lead might not work...but i may still use it on certain things. A good filler it is then if I "delete" those seams.
BlackFlame is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:37 PM
  #15  
64.5stanger
2nd Gear Member
 
64.5stanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: minnesota
Posts: 233
Default

im not too woried aboot panel lines, i am fo sho ly deleting the antenna any one done this. I know there are car/trucks out ther w/amplified ant( wire wraped) any one know bout hooking these up. thinking bout puting classic radio w/usb or mp3 hookup
64.5stanger is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 11:03 PM
  #16  
rmodel65
Yukon Cornelius
 
rmodel65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
Default

rmodel65 is offline  
Old 12-11-2009, 01:54 AM
  #17  
65rangoon
3rd Gear Member
 
65rangoon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 675
Default

also ... dont you need to remove the headlight bucket if you ever want to replace the headlight?
65rangoon is offline  
Old 12-11-2009, 05:23 AM
  #18  
BlackFlame
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
BlackFlame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N Y
Posts: 131
Default

Originally Posted by 65rangoon
also ... dont you need to remove the headlight bucket if you ever want to replace the headlight?
On the 67-68's you can remove the front retaining ring then 3 attaching screws and it pops out.
BlackFlame is offline  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:01 PM
  #19  
Tomahawk715
1st Gear Member
 
Tomahawk715's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pickford MI
Posts: 88
Default

Be aware that the non lead solder melting point is almost twice that of lead. Something to consider if your just learning how to do it. Sounds good to use non lead as everyone is scared of it but you will be putting that much more heat into the panel. Lead is much easier to work because you can reheat it fairly easy.

Lead is not gonna make you fall over dead on the spot--just DO NOT sand it. Heck if you fish you have been exposed to more lead that you ever will when doing a seam. File it down and then spread cold filler over it. If you sand lead then it can be breathed in or absorbed thru the skin. Wear a mask and rubber gloves too just for extra security.
Tomahawk715 is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 12:37 AM
  #20  
rmodel65
Yukon Cornelius
 
rmodel65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
Default

ill still suggest an alum based body filler its more corrosion resistant....
rmodel65 is offline  


Quick Reply: Body Soldering



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:44 PM.