BlackFlame

I searched around a little bit and came across a few snipets here and there on this topic, but wanted to see if there was interest enough to get some discussion going.

Anyone have experience with body soldering ? Its usually known with/as "lead body filler", but there are a bunch of products today that are lead-free and those would be what I would use.

Im considering shaving and doing a bunch of fine line detail work on the project when I get back into it and I figure what way is better/stronger/more reliable than body solder. To me it just seems that it would last a LONG time (compared to bondo or plastic fillers) and I wanna go all out on the bodywork.

So...what are everyone's thoughts....

67t5ponycoupe

Leading is almost a lost art. Not many folks do it any more. It takes skill and practice to be good at it but it is an option. I would say though that the modern body fillers are very good and much easier to work with. If you don't have experience with body work I would stay with the plastic fillers.

64.5stanger

in high school we did a 64/ and used lead where the quarter meets the roof. there was rust in the joint behind the lead. my teacher was old school, not realy that different than other fillers. fill and file. imo i dont see a reason 4 it. if ur shaving handles, antena and gas filller ect. id sugest welding in sheet metal and filling w/plastic. the only place Id consider using lead is if the fill area is deeper/thicker than ud wana fill w/plastic

rmodel65

use an Aluminum based filler like metal to metal or all metal...better corrosion resistance

Tony R

So you recommend the All metal product rmodel? I used a little on one of my doors with mixed results. Maybe it was too cold out but it didn't want to set up right so I put the product on the back shelf.

hiboostwoody

I am going to try leading on mine when I get to that point. I need to redo the A-pillar to roof attaching points because mine cracked from the body twisting when I used to drag race it alot. I am also going to fill the rocker panel to quarter panel seam and the seams on the ends of the filler panel under the back window that fastbacks have. If I can do a good enough job with it I may use it on all the bodywork.

andrewmp6

My grandfather showed me the basics to it a few times its not that hard.Just heat it up spread it around and grind it smooth when your done,If its done right it will last forever.It does take longer is need a little skill to do it tho.Eastwood sells a kit and it comes with a dvd or they sell it on the side.Buy a hood or fender from a junkyard and practice on it.Only trick i know is when your done take a hammer and knock on it if it don't fall off its stuck for good.

2+2GT

Lead is indeed a rare art these days. At one time, plastic fillers were so poor that they would crumble under the paint. This is no longer true. Lead is still a good choice for thickly filled areas at body seams designed for it- lead is so stable and permanent I have seen junkers where the steel rusted away and left intact lead fill. Plastic is not yet that permanent.

BlackFlame

Thanks for the info guys. I wouldnt be using it to shave things like door handles or big areas like that..for those I would certainly be welding in sheet metal then do filling.

I guess my primary area of focus with it will be "deleting" the seams on certain areas.- Like the headlight buckets -to- fenders , rear quarter extensions -to- quarter panels, possibly the rocker panel seam -to- the quarter panels and maybe a few other small items.

It truly just seems like a better bond (body soldering that is) than a plastic filler as if the proper heat is applied its a metal-to-metal bond.

andrewmp6

It was used for years many old cars its still in place.But all filler can pop out of done wrong or too much body flex will pop it too.Plastic fillers have a life of 20 years most last 15ish only reason for the change was the plastic filler is a lot faster to use.