Starting with the engine is kind of backwards. Although a very popular method.
At this point with the exception of the body and interior, nothing else is really up to controlling the power of a V8.

You may want to consider updating some of the important items such as steering, suspension, seatbelts and brakes first.
The benifit of doing it this way is that it is much easier to do with a 6 cylinder than to try and work around a V8.
Throw a V8 in there and you may not make it to do any of the other upgrades.

the down side is, it isn't nearly as exciting.

Just something to think about.

 

I thought the 8" rear came on cars with small blocks except the 351?

 

8" did with V-8' not with an I6. The I6 got a spindly little 7.5", that was "good enough" for the lower output.

 

If that is what HH has, I would be very afraid if I were him.

 

hey i just finished building my 5.0 for my swap...it kinda sux because i cant drive it until the brakes and rear end are done i still suggest doing it this way because once that motor is in you will be more motivated to finish the rest, plus once the expensive part is over the rest comes together quickly...just my opinion

 

I did the swap about 2yr ago. I had to re-do the entire front suspension. But do take into consideration that I bought the car from a junk yard and it had been sitting a bit. I first did the coil springs and the sway bar in the front as well as the spindles to make it a 5 lug. After the heavier v8 was in it it drove like sh*T!! and was unable to be align because everything was messed up. Again this was probably part of the sitting and deterioration of the car itself and part of the heavier engine. Now that my suspension is redone it drives like a champ!!!
Now I am looking into switching to disc brakes.

 

To go the cheapest and least aggravating direction, sell the 67 I6, take your engine money and what you got for the mustang and get a V8 67’ or 68’ coupe. Unless of course you have all the time and money in the world.

Or rebuild and pump up the 6 banger, they do make performance part for the I6.

Good Luck

 

If you were to buy this mustang, How much would you pay for it?

Because i have thought about selling it alot of times.

Give your opinion on how much you would sell it for if you were the owner.

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That is a tough question that no one really wants to answer. The reason is, no one wants to insult you if they say it is worth less that you think it should be.

But since you asked “if it were mine, what would I sell it for” I will answer it as honestly as I can. First however, the variables have to be taken into account. Body condition, amount of rust and where, engine condition, desirability, and numbers produced, and so-on-and-so-forth. I would start at around 2400 and take nothing less than 1600. But than I just saw a 67 coupe on eBay in approximately the same condition sell for less than 1000.

Hopefully you are no all depressed now, but take into account that opinions are like ********, everyone have one. That is my 2 cents worth.

Cheers and good luck [sm=icon_cheers.gif][sm=smiley20.gif]

 

I would have to agree with 65_2+2. I paid $5300 for my '66 coupe, but it had gotten an off the frame resto about 3 years prior to my purchase. It has a new front suspension, new paint, and no rust to speak of. It is all about finding the buyer that wants the car and is willing to pay what you want for it. My Stang also has the original I6, however, it is still a 6.

Question on switching to 5 lug wheels: My bother has a '88 Saleen, 302ci engine, and it has 4 lug wheels. Is it really necessary to switch to 5 lug?

h_h, there is a '67 coupe, 289ci, automatic for sale near me for $7000 and it has all of the bells and whistles that one could get for that model.