ok im aware that my motor is suppose rated at 220hp, and im looking to increase that but not by much, i am looking for 285-300rwhp. at the moment its stock but by summer time i want it out on the road here is what i've got for it.
*torker intake
*long tube headers
*windage tray
*main stud girdle
(possibly rocker arm stud girdles if they work)

i want to keep the 2b carb now my question is would a cam and porting of stock heads do the trick? also keep in mind i dont want to blow the compression out of proportion i would like reasonable gas mileage. understand now i have foxs near the 400hp mark and its not very street mannered and with my 1970 the suspension is not nearly as stable so i can imagine a mess it would be so im not interested in going over 300 to the wheels. any help would be appreciated thank you

 

ok im aware that my motor is suppose rated at 220hp, and im looking to increase that but not by much, i am looking for 285-300rwhp. at the moment its stock but by summer time i want it out on the road here is what i've got for it.
*torker intake
Use a Performer RPM manifold with Edelbrock 600 cfm carb.

*long tube headers
Not really necessary unless you plan to spend a lot of time at 5000-6000 rpm, or will be going to the track. Shorties will be easier.

*windage tray
*main stud girdle
(possibly rocker arm stud girdles if they work)
These all work, but are really only needed at the track. The bottom end of even the standard Ford 302 is pretty stout.

i want to keep the 2b carb
Bad idea, even if all you want is better fuel economy.

now my question is would a cam and porting of stock heads do the trick?
The main weakness of the stock heads was all the crap they added to the exhaust ports for smog equipment, and the lousy casting control around the opening. A couple hours cleaning these up and matching them to the exhaust makes a world of difference. A cam with about .480" lift will give you plenty of power yet be easy to drive.

also keep in mind i dont want to blow the compression out of proportion i would like reasonable gas mileage.
Flat top pistons are as high as you want to go. The dished 2V pistons would allow you to use pump regular.

my 1970 the suspension is not nearly as stable so i can imagine a mess it would be so im not interested in going over 300 to the wheels.
The 1970 suspension can be modified very inexpensively to be very stable and controllable, we can go into that if you like.

 

i was under the impression that 1970 wasn't too crazy in the emissions yet i thought that didnt happen til about 73. so could i still expect serious gains from some head work work? if it helps i also have a spare 1995 351w i could use heads and cam off of? as for the other A.M. parts i already have them. so it would be cheaper to work with them. this will be a motor i intend on putting serious miles on as i have no intention on making it a collectors car think of it as a daily driver minus snow/salt roads

 

oh and about the suspension, i want to get the feel of the car after mods. before i decide anything but im pretty set on the coilover bolt on kits cjpony parts has for $4k wont be for a few yrs though being i still have odds and evens to wrap up on 3 other projects.

 

The smog pump appeared on Ford engines in 1966. There were lumps in the ports to facilitate this. The lumps just kill performance, and must be removed. The "nose" clogging this port, and the rough shaded area around the opening must be removed. Sometimes the nose was in the upper left corner of the opening.
The 351W head was the "old school" upgrade, but requires pop up pistons or they just kill the compression ratio.

 

well you seem to know your stuff. so pretty much the only thing i would have to add to my list is porting of the heads, a cam with at least .480 lift and a 4b carb. now again i will be trying to use my torker intake the girdle and windage tray aswell as the longtube headers. would the rocker girdle add any stability/help and lastly would this combo give me the 285-300 im aiming for?

 

Just to level set for you.....

This is the advertised net horsepower without any accessories on the motor.

This is a completely different measurement. First you need to convert your car's advertised power level to RWHP...I'll take a stab at it and say 150 RWHP. Or you can convert the other way and say you need to build a motor to make between 350-370 Flywheel horsepower.

IMO to reach that power level you need:
After market heads (sure you could invest 4 digits into the stock heads but by then you could have gone after market)
Much larger cam
4v carb and intake (or convert to EFI)
New pistons to bump the compression up because compression IIRC will go down with most aftermarket heads
Stall converter (if you have an auto)
then all the other incidentals that go along with a HP build up (brakes, suspension, multi-spark ignition, dizzy, wires, fuel lines, oil pump, baffled pan, etc.....)

 

yea this is the list i was hoping to avoid. but it seems i will end up buying that top end power kit from summit/jegs for $1,700-1800 btw 4spd toploader

 

But you originally mentioned keeping the 2 barrel.............So........if we forget the horsepower numbers (just let them fall where they may) and try to improve torque and drivability, then what? If I'm not likely to push it past 5 grand, what's the answer?

 

Why not just drop the 351W in it with a mild cam, 650 vacuum secondary carb, an air gap intake, and headers? Simple solution that will stomp a mudhole in the 302 easy.. Im with Dodgestang, getting 300whp isnt going to be easy without buying more parts.

rmorrell, keeping the 2 barrel and doing much more than adding a slightly bigger cam and headers would be a waste of time. Its not a matter of RPM as much as it is load and demand, at least with vacuum secondary carbs. The stock autolite 2v just doesnt flow enough to do much.

However, if you only are after small increases, then adding dual exhaust with the manifolds, recurving the distributor so the advance is all in by 3000 rpm, and adding a bit more initial timing would help. Dont expect to see huge gains, but it will improve a little in seat of the pants and sound. You could swap a slightly higher stall converter in it if its auto (like a 2000-2400), or if you have a manual trans go with a little more gear, such as 2.79/3.00 to 3.23.

The slowest slug of a V8 car I have ever owned was my 67 Cougar with a stock 2v 302 automatic with single exhaust and 3.00 open grears. 0-60 by Thursday if you started out on Sunday afternoon. We timed it with a calendar. It has a healthy Cleveland now. Perfect car for a 16 year old though.