Need Help with swap
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 5
From: California
Need Help with swap
Hey, i have a 68' mustang coupe and i wanted to do a 5.0 swap from a 93 mustang i heard about. Just had a few questions.
How hard is the swap? Time length? Money?
What kind of performance can i get from the new engine and trans? Can i turbo?
Any info helps. Thanx
How hard is the swap? Time length? Money?
What kind of performance can i get from the new engine and trans? Can i turbo?
Any info helps. Thanx
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
You would need to be more specific on the swap.
Are you swapping the engine and fuel injection or just the engine?
Transmission?
You can also search the subject on this forum.
I can't get into the details on the fuel injection, as I don't know them all.
As for installing a turbo, I think that is better left to someone who has experiance. Pay a good shop for that mod.
The long block (engine minus the fuel injection manifolds) is fairly straight forward.
You will need a front sump oil pan.
You will need to block off the HO dipstick hole in the block.
You will need a flywheel or flexplate with a 50 ounce balance that mates to the tranny you are using.
You will need to use the HO damper.
Now depending on your belt system:
Old system-
If you choose to run your vintage timing chain cover, water pump and pullies you need a different crank pulley to bolt to the HO damper. You will also have to install a fuel pump eccentric on the end of the camshaft to run the mechanical fuel pump.
I would replace the timing chain and front and rear crank seals at this time as well.
HO serpentine set up-
You will need to install an electric fuel pump-there is no place to bolt on a mech pump.
You will need to drill a hole and install an oil dipstick. You will need to install the front sump oil pan. You will need the alternator bracket and alternator. I used a trick flow A/C eliminator bracket that can eliminate the AC and PS. You will need the belt tensioner.
I believe the HO power steering pump will work for old power steerint but not sure so check. You will need new power steering hoses (I'm guessing)
The HO water pump draws from the driver side not the passenger side so a new radiator or hose kit will need to be purchased.
You will need to wire in the alternator-eliminating the old voltage regulator.
I would replace the timing chain and front and rear crank seals at this time as well.
Double check the overall length of the waterpump and timing cover to make sure you can use the old fan.
When I did mine I had no power steering. I wanted the serpentine belt drive and higher rated alternator. I plugged the dipstick hole in the block with a wood dowel and some gasket sealant. I installed a fuel pump on a relay located at the gas tank. Fuel pumps prefer to push than suck. I used the HO timing chain cover and drilled a hole in the same location as the vintage cover. There is a chunk of aluminum there-almost like it was meant for this. I bought a cheap chrome oil dipstick and pressed it in with a little sealant on it. The dipstick tub will need to be bent around the new alternator bracket. The Trick Flow AC elimator bracket gets installed on the driver side with the tensioner bolted to it. I bought a new aluminum radiator with the exit on the driver side for the new style pump. New gaskets/seals were installed everywhere. I mocked up the rad hoses I needed and stared at the checker hose rack until I found 2 that worked (turned out nice BTW). A new flex fan and spacer and I was on my way. I swapped a T5 as well so I didn't have to mess with purchasing a special flywheel.
I have an RPM air gap manifold, headman auto tranny headers and a holley double pumper. It runs very well in front of my 3.89 rear gears.
I would recommend anyone interested in a new motor this swap before paying $2k plus to rebuild their old one. I would guess I have 250HP at the crank and it cost me less than $500. I was fortunate in that I was able to hear the motor run before buying. It had good oil pressure and ran smooth. After taking it home, I had compression tests of 170-180psi. I have a serpentine belt system, electronic internal voltage regulator and alternator that puts out 70 amps. It also cleans up the wiring a little.
While you are there, do the relays for the headlight set up. Then buy the $25 headlights (silver something) from checker and have headlights nearly as bright as a new car.
The best advice I can give you is to search the internet forums for any question you have. I don't think there is much that hasn't been asked. This will give you many more responses than just posting a question. Some guys (including myself) may not be 100% accurate all the time with their answers.
I say this only because there may have been something I forgot.
Key points to remember:
Your vintage 302 (28 oz)will have a different balance damper and flywheel/flexplate than an HO 302 (50 oz). They will also have different bolt patterns so pulleys cannot be swapped.
Your transmission may have a different tooth count on the flexplate/flywheel than a HO 302. This is critical for getting the starter to engage correctly.
They do make special pulleys and flywheel/flexplates that cross over, but they can get expensive.
Good luck. I find if a project takes 6 hours then I need to do 6 hours of internet research before I am ready to tackle it.
Are you swapping the engine and fuel injection or just the engine?
Transmission?
You can also search the subject on this forum.
I can't get into the details on the fuel injection, as I don't know them all.
As for installing a turbo, I think that is better left to someone who has experiance. Pay a good shop for that mod.
The long block (engine minus the fuel injection manifolds) is fairly straight forward.
You will need a front sump oil pan.
You will need to block off the HO dipstick hole in the block.
You will need a flywheel or flexplate with a 50 ounce balance that mates to the tranny you are using.
You will need to use the HO damper.
Now depending on your belt system:
Old system-
If you choose to run your vintage timing chain cover, water pump and pullies you need a different crank pulley to bolt to the HO damper. You will also have to install a fuel pump eccentric on the end of the camshaft to run the mechanical fuel pump.
I would replace the timing chain and front and rear crank seals at this time as well.
HO serpentine set up-
You will need to install an electric fuel pump-there is no place to bolt on a mech pump.
You will need to drill a hole and install an oil dipstick. You will need to install the front sump oil pan. You will need the alternator bracket and alternator. I used a trick flow A/C eliminator bracket that can eliminate the AC and PS. You will need the belt tensioner.
I believe the HO power steering pump will work for old power steerint but not sure so check. You will need new power steering hoses (I'm guessing)
The HO water pump draws from the driver side not the passenger side so a new radiator or hose kit will need to be purchased.
You will need to wire in the alternator-eliminating the old voltage regulator.
I would replace the timing chain and front and rear crank seals at this time as well.
Double check the overall length of the waterpump and timing cover to make sure you can use the old fan.
When I did mine I had no power steering. I wanted the serpentine belt drive and higher rated alternator. I plugged the dipstick hole in the block with a wood dowel and some gasket sealant. I installed a fuel pump on a relay located at the gas tank. Fuel pumps prefer to push than suck. I used the HO timing chain cover and drilled a hole in the same location as the vintage cover. There is a chunk of aluminum there-almost like it was meant for this. I bought a cheap chrome oil dipstick and pressed it in with a little sealant on it. The dipstick tub will need to be bent around the new alternator bracket. The Trick Flow AC elimator bracket gets installed on the driver side with the tensioner bolted to it. I bought a new aluminum radiator with the exit on the driver side for the new style pump. New gaskets/seals were installed everywhere. I mocked up the rad hoses I needed and stared at the checker hose rack until I found 2 that worked (turned out nice BTW). A new flex fan and spacer and I was on my way. I swapped a T5 as well so I didn't have to mess with purchasing a special flywheel.
I have an RPM air gap manifold, headman auto tranny headers and a holley double pumper. It runs very well in front of my 3.89 rear gears.
I would recommend anyone interested in a new motor this swap before paying $2k plus to rebuild their old one. I would guess I have 250HP at the crank and it cost me less than $500. I was fortunate in that I was able to hear the motor run before buying. It had good oil pressure and ran smooth. After taking it home, I had compression tests of 170-180psi. I have a serpentine belt system, electronic internal voltage regulator and alternator that puts out 70 amps. It also cleans up the wiring a little.
While you are there, do the relays for the headlight set up. Then buy the $25 headlights (silver something) from checker and have headlights nearly as bright as a new car.
The best advice I can give you is to search the internet forums for any question you have. I don't think there is much that hasn't been asked. This will give you many more responses than just posting a question. Some guys (including myself) may not be 100% accurate all the time with their answers.
I say this only because there may have been something I forgot.
Key points to remember:
Your vintage 302 (28 oz)will have a different balance damper and flywheel/flexplate than an HO 302 (50 oz). They will also have different bolt patterns so pulleys cannot be swapped.
Your transmission may have a different tooth count on the flexplate/flywheel than a HO 302. This is critical for getting the starter to engage correctly.
They do make special pulleys and flywheel/flexplates that cross over, but they can get expensive.
Good luck. I find if a project takes 6 hours then I need to do 6 hours of internet research before I am ready to tackle it.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
One more thing, the HO motor has a billet camshaft. You will need to change the distributor cam gear to work properly with the camshaft. The vintage gear will get ripped to shreds, placing fine particles of death and destruction into your oil pan.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Matt's 95 Stang
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
2
Oct 5, 2015 07:16 AM
