Interior paint
I'm going to be tearing into the interior and need to repaint the dash etc. Any one have any tips on how to get the old paint off and what kind of paint/primers to use when it's time to repaint? I'll be taking it to bare metal (where applicable).
I know I'll be taking out all the gauges switches etc so...
Thanks for the help!
I know I'll be taking out all the gauges switches etc so...
Thanks for the help!
I'm going to be tearing into the interior and need to repaint the dash etc. Any one have any tips on how to get the old paint off and what kind of paint/primers to use when it's time to repaint? I'll be taking it to bare metal (where applicable).
I know I'll be taking out all the gauges switches etc so...
Thanks for the help!
I know I'll be taking out all the gauges switches etc so...
Thanks for the help!

When its time to paint, Id lay down a decent etch primer first so the bare metal is protected well..it should help with paint adhesion too. Then apply the color of your choice. If you're doing something as simple as black or a satin black you can use an epoxy primer..its durable and should last for a while. Good luck!
Its not a biggie. Chemical stripper works great. I like to use it then let it dry. It makes sanding and/or blasting much easier. On the grained door surfaces if doing also, a coat of stripper and wire wheel on a drill works great. Again don't be afraid to let the stripper dry, the paint will be loosened up and there are less danger of slingin stripper on something you don't need it on. Also, on the grained door surfaces, be careful not to over do the primer or you will loose the grain. Just a dusting of primer (as long as its not too dry) will do fine. The same holds true with the paint. On the paint, I like acrylic enamel. The ratio I use for the proper sheen is paint/catylist with about 30-35% flattener (also about an 0.5 oz of fine metallic if needed). Be sure to keep it mixed up well as the solids will quickly settle to the bottom. Oh, the epxoy primer has about the right sheen and is tough as nails, it will have to be thinned for the grained surfaces thoiugh (if it can) or it can fill the grain.
Its not a biggie. Chemical stripper works great. I like to use it then let it dry. It makes sanding and/or blasting much easier. On the grained door surfaces if doing also, a coat of stripper and wire wheel on a drill works great. Again don't be afraid to let the stripper dry, the paint will be loosened up and there are less danger of slingin stripper on something you don't need it on. Also, on the grained door surfaces, be careful not to over do the primer or you will loose the grain. Just a dusting of primer (as long as its not too dry) will do fine. The same holds true with the paint. On the paint, I like acrylic enamel. The ratio I use for the proper sheen is paint/catylist with about 30-35% flattener (also about an 0.5 oz of fine metallic if needed). Be sure to keep it mixed up well as the solids will quickly settle to the bottom. Oh, the epxoy primer has about the right sheen and is tough as nails, it will have to be thinned for the grained surfaces thoiugh (if it can) or it can fill the grain.
Vinyl it all! Less mess and quicker then sanding, taping, priming, painting, etc. There is no paint inside our 67.. dash, doors, int quarters are all covered in vinyl. The vinyl bolts can be ordered through NPD in all colors, a couple cans of spray adhesive, scissors and a sharp knife (razor blade) is all you need. The bolts are wide enough to cover the entire dash in 1 piece.. this is a 2 person job done in about 1 hour.
Doors take about 30 minutes each and the int quarters take about 20 minutes each.
Just a second option most people don't think about. Its quite easy to do as well.
Doors take about 30 minutes each and the int quarters take about 20 minutes each.Just a second option most people don't think about. Its quite easy to do as well.
I didn't bother taking any pics while doing it however you can see the Light Ivy Gold vinyl on the door and int quarter panels in the pics below. I did the dash in 1 piece as well with a buddy holding the other end as I worked it across. I had never done this before and it came out very well for a first attempt. The biggest thing is to use a heat gun and make sure you warm the vinyl enough that it can be stretched and worked. Most areas don't need much but curves and bends take a bit to learn. As you can see on the int quarter pic the bubble that formed in that deep curve about 4" from the top. Thats because I didn't heat it quite enough. Time was a factor last summer/fall so I didn't have time to peel it back, clean off the glue and reapply it. This will be done sometime hopefully in the next few months.
A few tips..
The Bolts of Vinyl from NPD are 54" x 72", cost 49.95 and come in a roll.
Make sure you cut a section large enough! You'd rather waste a bit extra while trimming then find out you cut the vinyl a bit too short.
Spray adhesive really does work better when sprayed on in two directions.
Stop and reheat vinyl as needed when applying it to part.
Always start at one end and work slowly across for complete adhesion.
Use a small semi-soft sanding pad to work the vinyl in groves and rounded corners (think all those areas on the dash). Saves your thumbs and works better!
When doing large areas spray the glue in sections.
As I found out its quite simple yet there is a small learning curve of course. I found the Int quarter panels easiest to start at the bottom forward corner, apply upwards to the top then apply it working to the back/seat edge. I stopped on the 2nd panel and spent more time heating the vinyl at that deep curve (passengers side has no bubble). Once the surface is covered then you wrap it around the edges and its glued about an inch or so on the back side of the panel as well. Lots of trimming and small cuts are made to work around the edges. Again.. its fairly easy but don't rush it! Take your time, think about it each step and you'll be happy.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.

A few tips..
The Bolts of Vinyl from NPD are 54" x 72", cost 49.95 and come in a roll.
Make sure you cut a section large enough! You'd rather waste a bit extra while trimming then find out you cut the vinyl a bit too short.
Spray adhesive really does work better when sprayed on in two directions.
Stop and reheat vinyl as needed when applying it to part.
Always start at one end and work slowly across for complete adhesion.
Use a small semi-soft sanding pad to work the vinyl in groves and rounded corners (think all those areas on the dash). Saves your thumbs and works better!
When doing large areas spray the glue in sections.
As I found out its quite simple yet there is a small learning curve of course. I found the Int quarter panels easiest to start at the bottom forward corner, apply upwards to the top then apply it working to the back/seat edge. I stopped on the 2nd panel and spent more time heating the vinyl at that deep curve (passengers side has no bubble). Once the surface is covered then you wrap it around the edges and its glued about an inch or so on the back side of the panel as well. Lots of trimming and small cuts are made to work around the edges. Again.. its fairly easy but don't rush it! Take your time, think about it each step and you'll be happy.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Awsome look. for paint though, use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to strip. apply paint directly to the surface to preserve the grain. I applied paint with an air brush, vary little over spray but lots of refilling the bowl.
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 831
From: Edgewood, MD
I might take all the metal surfaces down and steel wool them, throw on a quick coat of clear. Bring out that BA hardcore metal look on many surfaces.


