I had this happen to my '69 as well before I sold it. I've been getting this little oil pool right here on top of the timming chain cover. The fact that it's happened to two different engines , same exact spot makes me wonder what i did wrong or how I can fix it. Any ideas??

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Yeah I got the same Issue....I think its because I didnt put enough permatex "right stuff" gasket maker between the block and the intake....

 

really? I thought you just lay down your intake manifold gasket, drop some celicon in on the front and back of the top of the block and thats' it..

 

Permatex "Ultra Black" (or copper) and a good thick 3/8" bead along the top front and rear block edges and the intake settles down into it. Bolt and torque the intake down, let it dry and trim the access off with a sharp knife if you want.. I didn't bother myself. I remember doing this and telling myself I didn't want it to leak so bought a new tube and just squeezed the bejesus out of it along those 2 edges.

 

cool, so long as it's not coming from the head gasket then I'm happy! haha, you know what...maybe that explains the other leak I have, I just posted another thread about it, but it's a coolant leak...thanks for the info! I'll look into it next chance i get to work on the car

 

It's a Ford Windsor thing, common as dirt.

 

did you get the block decked? If so, it could change the angle of the heads in relation to the intake, and can cause leaks (oil or coolant, not to mention leaking air/fuel if bad enough). Sometimes the heads themselves need to be milled on the intake side, or the intake can be made to match.
Also, I don't use the end pieces at all. Just a good bead of silicon. End pieces slip and slide as you torque the intake down. the silicon seals.
Also, I see in the pitures you have an aftermarket distributor... did you use the same one on both leaky engines? Did you replace the o-ring on it?

 

As mentioned above, Permatex is the solution. No Permatex=Oil leak in most cases. Usually the leak is from the junction between the front and side gaskets.

 

On my other engine i believe i used a Petronix distributor...I remember that thing was huge and all it needed was a 12V source. The one I'm currently running in that pic is a MSD distributor and I did have the oil "O-Ring" on both of them. But, after reading the input you guys provided I'm begining to think I know what is the problem. I think I just didn't lay out a layer thick enough of cilcon for the front and back of the intake manifold.
In fact, I think i ended up using the little lip that comes with the manifold gasket and a bit of cilcon...there's only one way to find out now and that's gonna be by replacing that gasket and seeing if it works.

 

I had a local shop install an Edelbrock Performer manifold. I had the exact same oil leak as your car has, as well as an even worse leak at the rear. When I brought it back for a coolant leak I was told that the rear main was the culprit, and that the distributor O ring was to blame for the front. I later found that there was oil pooling up at the top of the bellhousing. I decided to stop trying to get The Carburetor Shop to make it right, and re-do the job myself.
When I pulled the manifold I found that "Vinnie" had used a grey gasket maker, front and rear. It appeared that he squirted a very small amount rather unevenly, and did not properly clean the surfaces. There were places at the rear sealing surface that had as little as .010" thick gasket maker! It appeared that he did not allow the RTV to set up prior to torquing the intake. He also used intake gaskets designed for the original cast iron intake, which are not to be used with an aluminum intake.
I scraped the heads and the front and rear mating surfaces, then I used Brake Cleaner and Scotch-Brite on all sealing surfaces of both the intake and the block. I laid a full bead of blue RTV, then carefully place a cork gasket on top, then I laid another full bead of blue RTV on top of the cork. I also put a small bead at the front and rear of the intake gaskets. After letting the RTV set up, I placed the intake onto the engine with a helper holding two large phillips screwdrivers to align the intake with the heads. I snugged the intake bolts in finger-tight and let the car sit for two days.
I used an inch pounds torque wrench and converted the 18-20 LB/FT to LB/IN and torqued it in three stages in order per the PDF. There are no more leaks!
Part of me is almost glad the shop screwed it up so badly, as I was able to do the job right myself. This gave me the confidence I needed to do all the work myself from then on!
This past June, I replaced the POS chrome thermostat housing that was installed with the manifold with an unplated Ford unit. When I pulled it, I found that there was two full beads of RTV on the THERMOSTAT, restricting the coolant flow! I saved it and I need to take a picture of this thing for all to see!
Good Luck,
Brian