Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Subframe connectors

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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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Default Subframe connectors

Now that my floor pans are done and over with, the time has come to stiffen up the frame. I see that there are many types of subframe connectors, but what are some of the pros and cons of each type? Bolt on vs. weld on? Is there an specific brand that is better than another? What type of difficulty can I expect on a job like this?
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 01:54 PM
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What I would do it buy the bolt on ones. That will make it where you can bolt them on and then have someone weld them on to give it even more strength.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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That's what I was thinking too. Any other suggestions?
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Weld them in is the best its stronger and can't come loose.Most like http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/ind...=cat/cat60.htm if it was me http://www.globalwest.net/1964-73_Mustang_Subframes.htm and the outer rocker support will stiffen it way up.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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The main failing of any connector is too little of the connector attaches as an overlap at each end. I have even seen some that attach to the narrow part of the front rail, below the front floor, which is useless. Any connector that's bolted instead of welded can shift, so even if it doesn't rattle it'll let you down when you need strength the most.

The best I have seen is a 66 coupe GT that had front torque boxes and convertible inner rockers added. Stock appearance and ground clearance, and stiffeness superior to any add-on tube. Of course, it takes four days, not four hours, to install them.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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I picked up the Global West ones, they weld F/R and are a heavy gauge tube much like rollbar pipe. I'll have them welded in at a muffler shop on the rack, no need to bolt them on first as they may need to adjust.
These are what I got:


Test fitted on my '67 to figure out what I'm going to do with the '68 3/8" fuel line that gets pinched under it:



Here are the tinman's that are popular also and look like a stock part of the car but I think you weld them to the floorpan also and I didn't want to go that route:



Jon
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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I went with the tinmans - you don't weld them to the floor. They are welded to front and rear frame rails. I putting them in last summer - did in a couple hours - very easy install if you have a mig. fit nice and tight to floor as Jonk67 pics show. I plan on putting them on another car Im putting together this winter. Wehn I did research on these - most people were recommending against the bolts on - not as stiff and tend to loosen up was what I heard the most.

Last edited by palerider; Dec 27, 2009 at 09:31 PM.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by palerider
I went with the tinmans - you don't weld them to the floor. They are welded to front and rear frame rails. I putting them in last summer - did in a couple hours - very easy install if you have a mig. fit nice and tight to floor as Jonk67 pics show. I plan on putting them on another car Im putting together this winter. Wehn I did research on these - most people were recommending against the bolts on - not as stiff and tend to loosen up was what I heard the most.
+1 on the Tin Man subframes. Great Product, Easy Dealing and Fast shipping!

Their tubes must be 1/4 inch thick. The install was super easy. Took about an hour and a half.

Cheers,
Brian
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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Agree. those pics of Tinman's in the post above are on my car. They made a huge difference. If you're not a welder, buy a set and take them to a local muffler shop. They'll install them in an hour.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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The Heidt's Connectors offer a lot of overlap and are stout. They also come with provision for the addition of their chassis stiffener.








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