1 wire internal regulated alternators are the way to go...as far as the power, a stock 60-65 amp stock power will not cut it. I've got a 130 amp Mr Amp, but they also send the 6 gauge power wire and a thermal breaker with the kit.

 

Running a Powermaster 140A on mine. After years of use I finally had the first one go out, on my second one now. It lasted a hell of a lot longer than any stock replacement alternator I ever had.

 

Ok I bought a 150amp 1 wire alt that was originally a 3g... hmmmmm

I may have just gotten too excited to buy one before researching brands..or at least letting this thread keep going before buying!! Hope this one is good

 

I was looking at your sig after reading this post, "Never replace, upgrade"....


This is my problem with Power Master stuff, it seems I am paying "upgrade price" for a unit that wont last half as long as a similar rebuilt OEM component that costs half as much to start with...

I am particularly offended when I pay premium price for what seems to be a mediocre product.. It kind of feels like someone has hit me in the ***....

 

This alternator is badass... installed it last night.
With lights on, fogs on, everything I could turn on lol... toggles between 14.8 and 15v constant. Its a converted Motorcraft 150amp alt

Here it is!!

 

JMD, I agree with you about paying the "upgrade price" with certain brands. You are certainly paying a premium with Powermaster because of the name brand recognition. With my first Powermaster purchase I was fine with that because the 140 amp 1-wire alt I bought lasted me for years without ever any hassle, so I was happy. I sold that alternator after a few years when my first engine died...

Then I had a couple Powermaster 60 amps which were diagnosed as having bad regulators when I was experiencing some electrical problems with my car starting, battery draining, etc. I'm still not totally convinced that the regulators were the problem, but I sent them back and got the Tuff Stuff 140 amp 1 wire to change it up and for the extra power. Haven't had a problem since. You don't pay nearly as much of a premium with Tuff Stuff either, I went from a Powermaster 60 amp to a Tuff Stuff 140 amp, and it was still $10 cheaper.

I don't know how long brand new and remanufactured alternators are expected to last, or what the average is, but an OEM rebuilt alternator has always given out on me after a while.

 

The Tuff Stuff is fairly reasonable, I was considering a Tuff Stuff Booster/Master Cylinder a while back, it was well priced and the selection was good.

When I think "premium price, mediocre product" Optima batteries come to mind...

Those things USED to be good, now they are ****!!!!

 

I forgot to mention, for those people looking into alternators, that the Powermaster units fit great on my car being 1G Ford units. The Tuff Stuff is a "special GM style case with Ford mounting" which did not fit as well on my car. I have a chrome alternator bracket kit from M+ and the lower bracket wasn't long enough. The Tuff alt needed to swing further out, away from the engine block to fit properly. This mean that I had to buy a new belt and rig up an extension for the bracket out of a door striker plate, until I can get a longer bracket that fits. Here are the pics to see for yourself:

 

hey i am new to this whole thing here.. i have a 68 coupe "C" but was swaped with the 302... my alt went to ****! my battery keeps going dead.. I replaced it with a 65 amp referb and still went dead so i took it back.. they gave me another one to try and still it goes dead! wtf.. Anyone have any clue to what i can do? it dosent have a regulator on the side under the siloinoid like it shows in my book? dose it need one? or is it built in? any help? i bought the car for 2000 and have already put over a 1000 into it in the month ive had it... "new edelbrock intake and 600 cfm carb, cap, rotor, exaust, push button ignition." lots of stuff but this little problem is freekin KILLING ME!!!!

 

Ohh.. email is ethan1@hotmail.com.. thanks if anyone can help????