Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Is my starter dying?

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #11  
MustangBradley's Avatar
MustangBradley
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From: Florida
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One trick I use to start a warm carb car is to turn the key to start cranking and as it cranks, slowly press the gas to the floor. I say slowly because you don't want the accel pump to squirt any gas, you just want to allow more air in. This seems to do the trick most of the time and since it is not given too much gas it will settle into a proper idle quick.
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #12  
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urban_cowboy
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From: Texas Hill Country
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Originally Posted by MustangBradley
One trick I use to start a warm carb car is to turn the key to start cranking and as it cranks, slowly press the gas to the floor. I say slowly because you don't want the accel pump to squirt any gas, you just want to allow more air in. This seems to do the trick most of the time and since it is not given too much gas it will settle into a proper idle quick.
At least with my Holley, no matter how slow you open the throttle, the accelerator pump is going to get depressed thus squirting gas into the carb. It may be slow, but it is going to squirt.

nba1341, I am still very unclear what you issue is. Is it hard to get started when cold or hot? Do you have a choke? Is it activating correctly? Is your fast idle adjusted?

White smoke is pretty normal from a cold engine but should not be present from a warm engine.

I run a Holley 4150HP which does not have a choke. I hold the throttle open slightly to get the car started. I have to keep the throttle open slightly and hold the engine at 1500-2000rpm until it come to temp, but I am running a pretty big cam. My car blows some condensation out of the pipes until is gets good and warm.

Again, I am not sure what your starting issue is other than you have a trick solenoid that needs to be replaced.
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 12:20 PM
  #13  
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kalli
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From: Cork, Ireland
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first of all check on the selonoid. if you can switch it off (stopping starting) when you whack it, then it doesn't seem to be a wiring issue. It's either bad ground (doesn't make sense to me) or a faulty selonoid. They're dirt cheap and you're risking frying the starter and/or the spindle/gears on flywheel

as to your starting problem: rebuild 10000 miles ago, doesn't mean a thing (i rebuild an engine and had gasket issues at first start) ... ;-)

check on what JMD is saying anyway. once the car is warm (not brutal hot), remove the cap slowly from radiator. check for bubbles coming up. But if coolant level remains chances are good the gasket is perfectly ok.

apart from all that I'd say your starter is ok. what you describing is not the starter going slow, but turning the engine over just fine. The engine has problem firing.
Either related to ignition and fuel. swhat happens if you retard the ignition for a bit? ignition too far advanced can be problem with hard warm start, but usually you then get a similar issue as with a bad starter. the starter seems slow.

when warm just and before starting take off the airfilter, ignition on (i believe you have electrical fuel pump). Squirt once by opening the throttle fully. Do you get petrol? or does it take a while (2 or 3 squirts)?

further put a glass filter just in front of carb to see if you have any air in there when problem arises. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge mounted?

PS: When you run electrical pump, don't set float level with only the pump on. that does not work. the engine has to be running when setting float levels so it can use up the excess (if levels were too high). but then again if float levels were too low you would have problems with off idle

Kalli
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