Kit = Crank, rods, piston

If you are rebuilding the motor anyway you always buy new pistons and if the crank is marred up anywhere it might need to be replaced or machined heavily to use.

Bottom line is if you are doing a full rebuild the cost difference between a rebuild rotating assembly and a stroker assembly are not as far apart as you might think

 

Surprisingly, not that expensive. $1000 kits on ebay and that includes lots of goodies.

 

To answer your next question, I have had decent service/results getting machining and bottom end assembly from Kunkels Machine shop in Bel Air. They are a lower cost alternative than a straight up engine builder if you aren't building an all out performance monster.

 

I run a 383 stroker. It is fairly easy to get 450-500ft*lbs from a slight stroker. I can say that regardless of what engine you put in, when you get into the 450-500ft*lbs range, you will have to upgrade many driveline parts or you will break them. I am currently waiting on a special built toploader inputshaft from Liberty gears (the guys who make NHRA Pro Stock trannys). I have already distroyed numerous clutches, the rearend, axle shafts, spring pearch, u-joints, tranny input shaft, tranny output shaft, tranny main shaft, and on and on with that much torque. If you do not have the money to rebuild or upgrade all of that, you will want to watch what your torque numbers are. FWIW, I can blow up a street set of tires into smoke on dry road in two gears and untrack it in 3rd, if that is what you are after.

A 393 or 407 will be even easier to get torque from, but you will sacrifice some rpms as the redline decreases as you increase the stroke due to piston speed.

351 = 4.000" bore 3.50" stroke
383 = 4.030" bore 3.75" stroke
393 = 4.030" bore 3.85" stroke
407 = 4.030" bore 4.00" stroke
427 = 4.030" bore 4.170" stroke

With an aftermarket block you can do:
445 = 4.125 bore 4.170 stroke
454 = 4.125 bore 4.250 stroke

 

One other point. With a stroker, more so than a regular stroke engine, you need to make sure you get a good solid rotating assembly and connecting hardware due to the increased forces and speeds these parts are moving. No one ever puts a stroker together and then de-tunes it, so they generally are asked to hold up to pretty good power. It would really suck to put money into a motor just to throw a rod or break something else. I would never buy a stroker kit from ebay. I run an Eagle system. I think Scat is also pretty good. Forged 4340 parts with forged pistons and good ARP hardware has worked great for me. After 6k hard miles, the bottom end still looks brand new.

 

As mentioned in the above post, increasing the HP will shine a light on all the other weaknesses these old vehicles have. If not addressed as a package, you'll always be braking parts. And the rear suspension has some serious issues when in the stock form.

 

where do you live????
I live .8 miles from kunkels, bel air.
And i prefer not to deal with them, started with an intake manifold, i posted the story here some place.

 

Rising Scum...er sun.

Sorry about your experience.

I like these guys too....they built my current stroker
http://www.aca-performance.com/

 

Don't forget, 3.69 stroke = 377 cid using a stock crank.
Don't know if bigger strokes can use a stock crank.

 

Holy crap there are some peeps very close by to me and I didn't even know it. Very nice!