power brake conversion
My car had 4 drums when I got it back in 1987. I installed a Wilwood front disc set back in the early 90's. I think the discs are just 10 inches but they are such an improvement over the stock drums that it is not fair to compare them. I run my brakes unboosted (disc front, big drum rear) and have had no problems at all. So my point is, if you convert to boosted drums, you are not increasing your stopping power, only making it easier to push the pedal for a given amount of stopping power. Go with discs on front unboosted and you can always add the booster later if you want. Or, for a few dollars more, get the whole front kit and leave your worries in the past.
http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/
http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/
Unless you drive crazy and stupid on the street like I do, or live in the mountains, or compete in time trials on the odd weekend, you don't need discs.
You do need a good booster, and the only one worth using on a 64-66 is the OE style made by Master Power Brakes. The other "conversion" types tend to be overly sensitive and have far too high a defect rate. They sell them with single master, dual drum master, and disc/drum master. Glazier Nolan sells these, they are oddly hard to find, even on MPB's website. The bracket and lever between the booster and firewall are what make this setup smooth and reliable, as on the original. The odd master cylinder is a modern piece needed to provide the dual cylinder, as the stock iron master will not fit between the booster and the shock tower. This booster is inexpensive, easy to install, and works very well. Strangely, they advertise these as "manual trans only", which is incorrect, I have asked them about this and they said they were planning to correct the website, but so far they haven't bothered.
You do need a good booster, and the only one worth using on a 64-66 is the OE style made by Master Power Brakes. The other "conversion" types tend to be overly sensitive and have far too high a defect rate. They sell them with single master, dual drum master, and disc/drum master. Glazier Nolan sells these, they are oddly hard to find, even on MPB's website. The bracket and lever between the booster and firewall are what make this setup smooth and reliable, as on the original. The odd master cylinder is a modern piece needed to provide the dual cylinder, as the stock iron master will not fit between the booster and the shock tower. This booster is inexpensive, easy to install, and works very well. Strangely, they advertise these as "manual trans only", which is incorrect, I have asked them about this and they said they were planning to correct the website, but so far they haven't bothered.
Last edited by 2+2GT; Feb 9, 2010 at 04:31 PM.
Did you know none of the 65 66 Mustangs with Disc Brakes were POWER, all were Straight Push, no setup, manual Disc??
To add a Power Disc booster, makes common logic, Less moving parts, great the gain, so a straight push Booster would be more efficient.
Ford deemed it unnecessary to add the booster.
Dan @
ChockoStang
To add a Power Disc booster, makes common logic, Less moving parts, great the gain, so a straight push Booster would be more efficient.
Ford deemed it unnecessary to add the booster.
Dan @
ChockoStang
I converted from drums to discs (front only) and it was a HUGE difference. They are manual but I don't miss the booster at all. In fact I kind of like how it brakes now, it almost feels like I have more control than in my other car that does have power brakes.
In a sudden stop the drum or disc comes out about the same. If you are driving the car hard, the third or fourth stop will be a problem with the drums, not so much with the discs. Your right about the water, if you drive through water discs will dry almost instantly, while drums will take a heart-stopping half-a-second. Back when all cars were drums, a skilled driver would gently tap the brakes to clear them after hitting water.
I'd stick with the power boost for now.


