backyard engine
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 157
From: California
backyard engine
I am doing the whole 6 to 8 conversion on my 1967 coupe, but bought the engine over 6 months ago.... I don't know much about the technical side of automobiles, just how to take apart and put together (I'll be taking some technician classes to learn more)
That engine has been sitting in a backyard since the day I bought it. Its been covered by a really heavy waterproof plastic tarp. its been through a bay area, CA winter (rain/fog/30 degrees at lowest) It ran great when I bought it.
My question is: Will the engine run? Will it be locked up and need a rebuild? is this too long of a time to leave an engine sit around?
That engine has been sitting in a backyard since the day I bought it. Its been covered by a really heavy waterproof plastic tarp. its been through a bay area, CA winter (rain/fog/30 degrees at lowest) It ran great when I bought it.
My question is: Will the engine run? Will it be locked up and need a rebuild? is this too long of a time to leave an engine sit around?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
if it was covered well you should be ok.
remove at least the valve covers. chances are the internals look just like what you find in there.
you should manually turn the engine (at balancer) at least twice to see if anything is seized up before you install the engine
and before you start it prime it properly, and change the oil and filter.
so just before you fire it up the first time switch everything off, remove the distributor (mark the position of rotor and housing), at the end where the distributor locks in there's a hole where you fit in the bit of an allen key. attach one into a drill and turn counterclockwise for a few minutes. that'll splash oil about everywhere inside the engine (it's turning the oilpump just like the engine would). then manually turn the engine 90 degrees, and prime again. do that for two full revolutions of engine (8 times). that's probably the best treatment she can get without pullking everything apart.
remove at least the valve covers. chances are the internals look just like what you find in there.
you should manually turn the engine (at balancer) at least twice to see if anything is seized up before you install the engine
and before you start it prime it properly, and change the oil and filter.
so just before you fire it up the first time switch everything off, remove the distributor (mark the position of rotor and housing), at the end where the distributor locks in there's a hole where you fit in the bit of an allen key. attach one into a drill and turn counterclockwise for a few minutes. that'll splash oil about everywhere inside the engine (it's turning the oilpump just like the engine would). then manually turn the engine 90 degrees, and prime again. do that for two full revolutions of engine (8 times). that's probably the best treatment she can get without pullking everything apart.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 886
From: North East Texas on the Red River
WARNING!!! The suggestion to squirt oil in the cylinders is a good one, but beware that you MUST blow the oil out before replacing the plugs and turning over the engine again. Too much oil or any liquid in a cylinder can cause engine damage. Oil does not compress.
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 173
From: Guam
WARNING!!! The suggestion to squirt oil in the cylinders is a good one, but beware that you MUST blow the oil out before replacing the plugs and turning over the engine again. Too much oil or any liquid in a cylinder can cause engine damage. Oil does not compress.
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
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