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electric choke and first start question

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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Default electric choke and first start question

what do you connect the power wire to? I am trying to start my 67 289 for the first time after it was rebuilt and I have a Holley Carb with an electric choke. I though it connected to the negative terminal of the coil but that is killing my spark. I disconnected it and got a spark. I have also tested to make sure the carb is getting fuel. I am now think the choke not being hooked up is the problem. Any ideas on what else to check\try would be greatly appreciated.
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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The Pos wire should go to an ignition switched 12v source. Don't hook it to the pos going to the coil though. What kind of problems are you having?
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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Hook it up to the fuse box
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 09:23 PM
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even if the choke was inactive it should attempt to run for a second or two dead cold with no help.

A bit of throttle should keep it running okay even dead cold with fully open choke

If it aint doing jack squat...no pops or any sustained run, your issues far exceed choke plates.

-Gun
Old Feb 20, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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basically, the car cranks but does not turn over. the interior lights are dimming when I try to start the car so I am going to get the battery checked this morning. I am also going to recheck the timing. I originally set it at TDC hoping that it would start then I could adjust it from there. What else should I check if it does not start?
Old Feb 20, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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1) when was the last time it ran?

2) firing order okay?

3) plug wires okay?

4) timing a 180 out ( TDC on exhaust stroke and not compression stroke) ?

-Gun
Old Feb 20, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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this is the first time I have tried to start it in 2 years. I am attempting a total restoration. The engine has been rebuilt. The battery is fine. I am going to recheck timing.

I am not electrically inclined. What is a good ignition switched 12 V source for the positive electric choke?
Old Feb 20, 2010 | 11:52 AM
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you'll need a test light or meter to check for a hot 12v source. Im known for pulling them off the fuse block. with key off test a fuse with key on test the same fuse. You what to use one that only has power when the key is on. At least one fuse is hot even with they key out of the ignition.

Again your choke is small potatoes right about now I think.

If you dont buy that just jam a wire into the + lead on the choke and hook it right to the + lead on the battery...you'll get power to the choke which should now function and you can see if that makes it start. If it has a - wire make sure it goes to a good ground like bare metal or the - on the battery

-Gun

P.S you said "the car cranks but does not turn over" Which is the same thing as saying: "the starter turns the engine over but the starter does not turn the engine over." I have been interpreting this as: "the starter turns the engine over but the engine does not attempt to run at all and shows no signs of life at all" is my interpretation correct?

Last edited by Gun Jam; Feb 20, 2010 at 12:03 PM.
Old Feb 20, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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The choke wire shouldn't matter right now. It makes the choke open but, for a cold motor, you would want it closed anyways. I would hook it to a switched circuit at the fuse box though. Make sure to put it on the "down stream" side of the fuse.

As for the motor starting, it sounds like you have no spark. Are you still running points or have you gone electric? If timing was an issue, you would get some kind of pop, even if 180 out, you'd hear it in the exhaust.
Old Feb 20, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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I just rechecked timing and got the distributor back in. I know I have spark because I turned it over while my friend held it to the exhaust manifold. We also hooked up a timing light and got a flash on the first plug. I have also checked fuel by turning it over with the line to the carb in a cup.

If it still doesn't fire I am going to try setting the distributor 180 degrees out and trying that.



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