Ok, I got my buddy's clevor and it's going to a machine shop to get stripped down and check since it's been sitting soo long. One thing I noticed is he has a canton oil pan that is a double hump. Now to fit in my car I cant use that pan right? What type of pan do I need? If I use the ron morris drop motor mounts can I even get a bigger oil pan? where can I get accessory brackets? Blower to follow also.

 

Hes to be a front sump pan to fit a early mustang.The size of pan depends how low the car is my canton 7 quart road racing pan is about 2 inches off the ground,But my car is lowered 3 inches.

 

2" off ground? that's nothing. i'd have that destroyed within a week .. ?!
but ya. front sump pan. obviously the pickup needs to be in the front as well. don't know where it is with a double hum pan

 

Its my 3rd pan i learned to dodge pot holes and speed bumps.But i will raise it up soon i just been lazy.

 

man you must be more lazy than me when you wreck 3 pans and change them before you put effort into raising it *g* . that sounds like something I'd do

 

coilovers can be a pain to get it level that's why i haven't messed with them yet.Its on my list but will be a while.

 

I thought that you were buying an engine that had very little time on it, has been stored indoors and was running fine when it was stored. WHY are you taking it apart?

 

MBDiagMan, Yes you are right that it has almost no miles and has been stored. I went to see it and it's not as dry as I'd hoped. I called a few machine shops and they said "Haven't seen anything good come from a motor just sitting". So to make a long story short, since my buddy gave me the motor for free, I'm gonna have it looked at since i'm ahead of the game with money. I also need to figure out if I should keep it FI or change to a windsor carb setup. It has the plates on the cleveland heads.

 

Just an ordinary 351w front sump pan will do. I assume it has a high volume oil pump?
Describe the FI system please.
If it has port plates, they must be 4v heads?

 

If it were mine, I would pull the heads and look at the cylinders. I don't agree with the statement about it setting up so there must be something wrong. Even if the cylinders have surface rust, mild rust pitting won't hurt anything. I've proven this many times after putting motors back together that had sat for awhile after blown head gaskets and other problems allowing coolant to sit in the cylinders.

Unless you are willing to start over again on the build, you will be better off just starting it up after changing oil and filter, then warm it up and change oil and filter after the warm up. THEN if it runs and sounds good, DRIVE IT!

My $0.02,