Rear Gears
Yes I run one and am very happy with it....Aussie66(something or other) also runs one. His name escapes me as he doesn't post very often..I think he races his.
When the tru trac is installed you dont even notice it when you drive normal it does not eat up tires, pop, clank or act in anyway different than your current open differential.
It does do an amazing job of applying equal power to both rear wheels or transferring power to the gripping wheel. If one wheel is on sand and the other on clean pavement and you get on it it accelerates well until torque on the gripping wheel exceeds traction and it too begins to slip. When both wheels are on clean pavement it lays down very even stripes of equal length, color, clarity and concentration.
The only thing to watch out for with any LSD type system is crappy road conditions, sandy, icy, wet...ect. The car handles very different when both rear wheels lose traction at the same time under torque. It requires instant corrective measures ( usually smooth but rapid throttle release and rapid steer. ) that if not applied rapidly will result in total and rapid end swappage that may progress for more than 180 degrees. That said do find some empty lot after a rain to go practice in so that you learn first hand what is dumb and what is not.
-Gun
When the tru trac is installed you dont even notice it when you drive normal it does not eat up tires, pop, clank or act in anyway different than your current open differential.
It does do an amazing job of applying equal power to both rear wheels or transferring power to the gripping wheel. If one wheel is on sand and the other on clean pavement and you get on it it accelerates well until torque on the gripping wheel exceeds traction and it too begins to slip. When both wheels are on clean pavement it lays down very even stripes of equal length, color, clarity and concentration.
The only thing to watch out for with any LSD type system is crappy road conditions, sandy, icy, wet...ect. The car handles very different when both rear wheels lose traction at the same time under torque. It requires instant corrective measures ( usually smooth but rapid throttle release and rapid steer. ) that if not applied rapidly will result in total and rapid end swappage that may progress for more than 180 degrees. That said do find some empty lot after a rain to go practice in so that you learn first hand what is dumb and what is not.
-Gun
I would recommend 3.73-3.80ish gears with the AOD. I would go with the traction lock. It operates very smoothly and you almost don't even know its there until you mash the throttle. It doesn't make weird noises either. Just make sure the additive is put in with the gear oil. Since its going to be all apart, I would replace all the bearings and seals too, unless they are fairly new.
Last edited by tx65coupe; Mar 1, 2010 at 01:57 AM.
Look on eBay, there is a seller named tj1141 that sells the nodular iron third member with new trac-loc and your choice of gears for $800 assembled. This is for an 8", if you have a 9" it's even cheaper, like $600. I think shipping is $55 no matter where you are.
Summit sells them
But I had a shop order one for me. The car had a bent axle and while repairing that noticed that the ring and pinion gear were chipped and worn. I told them just replace the ring, pinion, 2 new axles, and throw that true trac in with it all.
-Gun
But I had a shop order one for me. The car had a bent axle and while repairing that noticed that the ring and pinion gear were chipped and worn. I told them just replace the ring, pinion, 2 new axles, and throw that true trac in with it all.
-Gun


