Steps to pulling '67 289 with auto trans. - Page 2 -

Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

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Old 08-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by captmaddog View Post
Not sure if this is an active thread still, but I'm wanting to take out my straight 6 engine out of my 68 and leave the tranny in so I replace all the inner fenders, weld and paint without the engine in the way. Is this advisable? I just think it would be easier and safer with stuff out of the way.
If you are set on leaving it in, just make extra sure that it is supported as the engine is what's holding the front of the transmission off of the ground.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:03 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by hiboostwoody View Post
For the engine:

Drain the coolant (easiest way is to remove lower hose) and remove the radiator

Drain the engine oil (not absolutely neccessary but it will keep from making a mess)

Disconnect the battery and all the electrical on the engine: Starter, alternator, coil, water temp and oil sending units, etc. (be sure to mark wires so you know where to put them back on)

Diconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump on the lower front driverside of the engine. Be sure to plug the line so it won't leak gas all over.

Remove the throttle linkage and transmission kickdown linkage from the carburetor

Remove the transmission vacuum control module vacuum line from the back of the intake

Jack car up and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS

Get under car:

Remove the starter

Remove the bottom four bellhousing bolts (2 on each side)

Remove the four nuts on the torque converter studs. Unless someone has removed it in the past, there will be an inspection cover on the bottom front of the bellhousing bellow the oil pan that you will need to take off to access the torque converter studs. You will have to turn the engine over to access all the converter nuts but this can be done by using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt. You can make this easier by removing the spark plugs to allow compression to escape as you turn the engine over.

Unhook the exhaust pipes from the manifolds or headers

Remove the engine mount bolts that go through the frame mount

Lower the car:

Remove the headers if it has them. You can pull the engine with stock exhaust manifolds attached but not headers.

Remove the carburetor to get it out of the way.

Remove the power steering pump if it has one. Don't disconnect the hoses if you don't have to. Just lay it aside if you have enough room

Remove the A/C compressor if it has one. Again, don't unhook the lines if you don't have to.

You may want to remove the alternator and fan to get them out of the way but it is not neccessary.

Put a jack under the transmission pan to hold it up when you take the engine out. Be sure to use a block of wood on the jack to keep from denting the pan.

Pull the two upper bellhousing bolts.

You can now hook up your engine hoist and pull the engine.

For the transmission - Assuming you pull the engine first:

Jack the car up and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS

Remove the transmission pan bolts and drain the transmission

Remove the dipstick tube

Remove the shifter linkage and unplug the neutral safety switch.

Remove the driveshaft. Be carefull that you don't loose the u-joint caps. Wrap electrical tape around the caps to keep them on.

Put a jack under the transmission pan. Use a piece of plywood to keep from denting the pan.

Remove the tranmission crossmember bolts

Lower the tranmission down and pull it out
Decent write up.
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1967, 289, 67, balancer, carburator, converter, fuel, harmonic, leak, mustang, oil, pan, pulling, remove, separating, torque, vent

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