Valve Adjustment 260
The rail type came in mid-66, so I think not.
Do this:
Turn the engine so the #1 intake valve is fully opened. Loosen the exhaust valve until you can move the #1 exhaust valve pushrod up and down (NOT spinning).
Tighten this valve until no up and down movement can be felt, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn.
Turn the engine so the #1 exhaust valve is fully opened. Loosen the intake valve until you can move the #1 intake valve pushrod up and down (NOT spinning).
Tighten this valve until no up and down movement can be felt, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn.
Repeat for the other 7 cylinders.
Do this:
Turn the engine so the #1 intake valve is fully opened. Loosen the exhaust valve until you can move the #1 exhaust valve pushrod up and down (NOT spinning).
Tighten this valve until no up and down movement can be felt, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn.
Turn the engine so the #1 exhaust valve is fully opened. Loosen the intake valve until you can move the #1 intake valve pushrod up and down (NOT spinning).
Tighten this valve until no up and down movement can be felt, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn.
Repeat for the other 7 cylinders.
2+2's method works great as long as the lifters are not worn such that they leak down. Since you only had the heads off and not doing a complete rebuild, it is possible that the lifters are old and will have leaked down.
Squirt oil in the side of each lifter to move the plunger to the top and then do the procedure as he described it. Another alternative is to use a primer shaft in a drill with the distributor out. This will apply pressure to the lifters so that they will not be collapsed when you adjust them.
A quicker alternative is to use the factory service manual procedure which tells you to rotate the engine to number one on the compression stroke and then it gives a list of all the valves you can adjust in that position THEN rotate one full turn and adjust the rest.
There was a post here a week or so ago with a chart for all Ford engines showing the valves to adjust in which position.
Squirt oil in the side of each lifter to move the plunger to the top and then do the procedure as he described it. Another alternative is to use a primer shaft in a drill with the distributor out. This will apply pressure to the lifters so that they will not be collapsed when you adjust them.
A quicker alternative is to use the factory service manual procedure which tells you to rotate the engine to number one on the compression stroke and then it gives a list of all the valves you can adjust in that position THEN rotate one full turn and adjust the rest.
There was a post here a week or so ago with a chart for all Ford engines showing the valves to adjust in which position.
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