To most mustang owners cowl is a four letter word, but for me it really wasn't. The cowl was not that hard to remove. There was about 200 spot welds but with me and my dad we had the whole thing out within 2 days. After we took the top part off we found a mouse nest, a rubber stopper, some extra nuts and bolts and leaves. I really suggest to anyone needing a new cowl don't use the plastic repair, and dont do the patch repair, buy the entire thing.

 

Good advise. I tried patching with plastic hats but it's not worth the effort. If you have access to a MIG and a spot weld cutter, the average person can make the repair with a full cowl replacement ($200) and a new cowl cover ($200) if you can't save the old one. If you don't use a spot weld cutter, hold a flat piece of copper underneath the holes with visegrips and fill the holes with the MIG. The weld will not adhere to the copper. It can be done in a weekend. Just remember to paint the new one before you put it in, something Ford didn't do.

 

Very good write up in mustang monthly

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projec...air/index.html

And you pre 70s guys have it easy---they make your cowl parts lol


I might add here--people may want to consider putting the new cowl parts in with panel adhesive with spot welds just in the corners--the adhesive helps seal the water out and obviously this is an area that is prone to rust. Its stronger than the spot welds and you have a seal all the way around. Cover all seams with seam sealer and as was stated above--use a good paint in there.

 

so did you buy the entire lower cowl? If so how was it removing/installing the lower cowl to the body?

 

Our local large paint supplier and a body shop also recommended putting in the cowl top with panel adhesive. They both said it is stronger then the spot welds. It is something I will consider and look into when the time comes.

Lynn

 

You can use panel adhesive but its not stronger then a weld.Its maybe 75% as strong as a weld is.Reason i say that is i had a ranger to fix that got rear ended.One bed side was replaced and panel adhesive on that side ripped almost fully off the factory welded side just wrinked up.

 

The shop that has done a lot of work for me in the past said he has seen time and time again cars that he has done with adhesive plus have had welding done and the adhesive has one every time over the welds in a collision.

Lynn

 

The Panel Bond Adhesive is not meant to be used on a structual part of a car. Which the cowl is one of the key points on the old mustangs.

 

OEMs claim its stronger--I've not done any lab testing myself obviously but with proper prep it only makes sense that a continual bead of this stuff all the way around vs spot welds every three inches would be stronger.

Id put some spots in the corners of the panel but thats the way I'd go.

Again for proper welds your going to be grinding off the paint and using weld thru primer--You creating rust areas just like they did when they made these cars.

Each to his own--Just giving options and stuff thats worked for me

 

yes i bought the entire lower and entire upper cover we will be welding it back in but i think we will spray the inside will undercoating or something