bkny347

Has anyone experienced this before. I have a 67 289 mustang and I just replaced the original intake manifold with a edelbrock performer 289. I realized that the performer doesn't have water port openings in the back like my original one does. Now all of a sudden my car began to run alot hotter, almost fully overheated, than it ever use too. Could this be b/c of the lack of ports in the back? Maybe I should just put my original back on or swap for the performer 302 b/c I think that one has the water port openings in the back.

67mustang302

Either your intake gasket is wrong or blocking the coolant ports in the front, the thermostat is in backwards, or the temp sender is busted. But it's not a lack of coolant crossovers in the back.

kalli

i was thinking the exact same thing as i changed to a weiand 8124 in the past from stock. In my case it was that the intake bolts were not torqued properly.
i torqued the bolts of course, but only once. you have to go around in the proper torque sequence at least 5 times til the thing is fully settled. You will know when no single bolt moves anymore at proper torque. the problem here is the V-shape of the intake. If it were flat like a head it's a totally different story ... I missed that, kept drivign, overheating and it got worse.
So check on that and what 67m302 says. worst case replace the gaskets again, but check on it soon before you cause more damage.

MBDiagMan

I have an Edelbrock Performer 289 on a 64 289 with 64 heads. On my previous early 289 I had overheating problems that I could never trace down. The heads on the old engine were RADICALLY milled and I never got to the bottom of the problem due to other insurmountable problems with that engine, I never really tried to overcome the over heat issue.

Since it is okay, and running as cool as you could hope for on my fresh engine, I can't blame anything on the intake manifold.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Starfury

Did you change carbs too, or just the intake? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Did you retime the motor afterwards? Running lean or with not enough ignition advance will cause the motor to run hotter than normal.

urban_cowboy

I have seen people install an external crossover hose at the rear of the intake, I had one on my original Air Gap. I am not sure it really does much. Theoretically, it helps even the water flow between the two sides of the engine. I just ordered a ported, runner matched, and reworked Air Gap from Dr J and asked him if there was anything to the crossover thing. He said it is not really worth the time to put one in.

MBDiagMan

Star points out something important! I believe that my overheating problem on my junker motor was due to a vacuum leak. As I said, the heads were milled so much the valves were somewhere along the pan rail. It made it hard to get sealed. Also as I said, I never tried fixing it because I was building another motor anyway.

Put a vacuum gauge on it and make sure you have a strong vacuum. If not, investigate.

bkny347

yea I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl holley so thats why I had to change the intake in the first place. The timing was originally off b/c we couldn't get it to turn over, but we finally got it set and was able to turn it over. Maybe it still needs adjusting.

bkny347

Never thought of that. Maybe I'll just take it to a mechanic and get them to torque them down for me real quick.

nba1341

Its just 15-18lbs of torque you should be able to do it yourself. Edelbrock has the pdf on their website with the sequence. I torqued mine down about once every couple hours and then a couple months later too.


p.s. take some carb cleaner and spray around when the engine is running to make sure you don't have a vaccum leak