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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 08:09 AM
  #11  
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thx :-) XE268H grind (comp cams 31-242-3)
Old Apr 14, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #12  
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what a *****

put in a new set of pushrods which are what edelbrock recommended fro my application, so that I have at least a set of same length pushrods. changed them all and adjusted rockers (with engine off). Said .. just to be sure I'll doublecheck it with engine running. Did all of them, splashed plenty of oil. put it back together and now I have valve ticking. So off come the covers again .. jaysus christ ... it can' be that hard ... the car hates me
Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #13  
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well it annoyed me so badly that I went home at lunch break to check. pulled rocker cover (of course ticking in both sides), and the problem is the rocker bolts. they're too loose. while running they start loosening.
I believe a buddy has a new set in the drawer. If not I'm stranded for the weekend (we all want to go to show). I think I should be good though
Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:56 AM
  #14  
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Did you check for correct pushrod length? If incorrect it can cause many issues, but one of the potential problems is directly related to what you are seeing. If the pushrod is too long it can push the lock portion of the nuts to a point to where they don't lock.

It only costs about $12 for a length checker push rod, but you need one roller tip rocker arm for the process if you don't already have them.

On the SBF there are so many variables that can effect push rod length, that unless you are simply rebuilding an engine in which you KNOW that all items are stock then you REALLY should measure for correct push rod length.

Best of luck with it and keep us posted.
Old Apr 14, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #15  
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ya. i got the 2nd checker yesterday (>6.8"), I have the <6.8" already.
I've put in what edelbrock suggested with their set for the moment and wear pattern seems ok. I'll recheck again tomorrow after changing the nuts.
the problem with the bolts was that I unbolted and rebolted them 4 times in the past two weeks.
Some of them another 2 times (where the pushrods were bent/broken). so I can only blame myself for not replacing them. It's just normal wear. They are meant to put them on and leave them there, not for me to open and tighten them a hundred times. I'll keep a few of the crappy ones for when I use the checking pushrod ;-)
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 07:00 AM
  #16  
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I have several adjustable push rods for different engines, but the one I use on an SBF covers something like 6.5 to 7.5. I don't need two for the same engine. It's been a long time since I bought it, but as I recall it was a Trick Flow item.

Having to use two different lengths instead of one that covers the entire range sounds like a potential PITA.

Sounds like you have the problem undere control anyway. Keep us posted.

Last edited by MBDiagMan; Apr 15, 2010 at 08:17 AM.
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 07:03 AM
  #17  
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--sounds like a potential PITA. yes
they're comp cams.
one is 5.8"-6.8", the other is 6.8"-7.8"
and I need 6.8-ish inches :-)
anyway tonights the night. buddy actually has two sets of those nuts (two different sizes). Collected them last night. after work I'll give it another shot
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 09:55 AM
  #18  
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Get a set of Polylocks. They are not that expensive and will save you a ton of time chasing loose rockers. That is the only way to roll. They WILL NOT loosen up.
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #19  
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was thinking about Nylocks, but I'll take what I have at the moment. was considering Loctite already, but that's me doing a botch job again. want to avoid that. i believe the nuts I have were just not impressed with 20 times opening and closing
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:46 AM
  #20  
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Cowboy was talking about the locks with an allen head set screw, if they will fit under your valve covers they would be a great solution for you.



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