Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

wheel hop

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 12, 2010 | 11:56 PM
  #1  
topher_csr's Avatar
topher_csr
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 62
Default wheel hop

i have a 1965 mustang, its got a 289, with a 4 speed and i am getting some wheel hop when i launch the car hard. what would be a good thing to firm the car up. i will be running the car at a local drag strip here soon, so i dont want to tear it up to bad.
Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:23 AM
  #2  
71Mach14spd's Avatar
71Mach14spd
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 234
From: California
Default

Traction bars, sub frame connectors, cal tracks, and a full tank of gas haha.
Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:10 AM
  #3  
67mustang302's Avatar
67mustang302
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
Default

Cal Tracs or CE Slide A Links.
Old Apr 13, 2010 | 08:36 AM
  #4  
Starfury's Avatar
Starfury
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
Default

Traction Masters traction bars work well and are much cheaper than Cal Tracs or Slide-A-Links. I'm of the opinion that the latter two are a bit overkill on a low-hp street car.

Keep in mind, good leaf springs will limit axle wrap. If you have crappy, worn out leaf springs, don't expect good performance out of them.
Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #5  
urban_cowboy's Avatar
urban_cowboy
5th Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,100
From: Texas Hill Country
Default

There is an article on this in Car Craft magazine this month. It basically says what other have already posted. A 4.5 leaf spring will aid in limiting spring wrap and causing wheel hop if you are running a leaf spring rearend. Traction bars like CalTracs or Slide-A-Links will also help greatly with this. If you are running a coil link rear suspension, that is a different animal and I cannot help much with that.

Something to consider that I have noticed. If you are not running a sticky enough tire, you are going to get wheel spin which can lead to wheel hop. If the tires are sticking, they generally do not hop during acceleration. Now wheel hop from braking as in a road course is completely different. This can be caused from over braking the rear which can be fixed by adjusting the brake bias and the above mentioned traction devices.
Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #6  
2+2GT's Avatar
2+2GT
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
Default

It's not really wheel hop, it's axle twist, which causes the tire to hop. Traction Master bars will cure that.

Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #7  
Oxnard Montalvo's Avatar
Oxnard Montalvo
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,188
From: 1984
Default

If it's an 8 inch rear bring a trailer.
Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #8  
topher_csr's Avatar
topher_csr
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 62
Default

so its looking like i should jsut launch the car easier. i still do have the 8inch under there and it is been beat on. i snaped the U joints out of it last year doing a burn out. i was thinking of launching around 3k for a safe launch
Old Apr 14, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #9  
2+2GT's Avatar
2+2GT
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
Default

What size tires? With the Traction Masters (or CalTraks) if you hook up really well you may trash your diff. Of course, that'll give you an excuse to get a Currie 4-pinion 8" Traction Lok, which is stronger than a lotta 9" rears.
Old Apr 14, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #10  
ozarks06's Avatar
ozarks06
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 439
From: MO
Default

There is an article on this in Car Craft magazine this month. It basically says what other have already posted. A 4.5 leaf spring will aid in limiting spring wrap and causing wheel hop if you are running a leaf spring rearend.
I have Maier Racing leaf springs (165#) and bought them because they said traction bars aren't needed with their springs. They said Traction Master-type bars bind the suspension because the rear-end travels in 2 arcs (the spring radius and the bar radius) so they ride stiff. So I bought their springs, which are forward biased (and very nice) with poly front bushings (which squeak like crazy), and ride stiff! Anyway, I still have some wheel hop (usually one big bang on shifting). They said if I would buy a set of Bilsteins that would cure it, but I'm skeptical about spending another $150 (on top of the $400 for the springs) to give it a shot. I'm planning on going with Traction Master bars.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:11 AM.