1K is very doable and I plan on dis-assembly myself, also it saves on cost of labor. Does that also cover the oxide and primer?

Toms River is not far from me. I'm in Bayonne. Thanks for the info

 

The cost is just the media blasting, both with the plastic and the oxide. I primed myself when I got the car home.

Bought the paint last night PPG DBC tri-coat, will be shooting some test panels as soon as the rain stops. First time shooting a tri-coat so this is going to be an interesting shoot. Hopefully I don't screw it up.

 

Dont want to hijack this guy's thread, so mr_velocity do you have a thread with your progress?
by the way check your PM's

 

God, working under the dash is a lot harder than I expected. I took a bunch of stuff out, and I'm less than halfway through. I hope to have the dash/firewall finished soon. After that, ROTISSERIE TIME!!!!!!!!!



Also, I have a question. I located a 302 motor from a '66 mustang. I think I can get it for $300, and it "ran when last used". While we all know not to trust that phrase, I'm gonna have to rebuild or at least get a mechanic to do some work on my 289 before I drive it anyways. So I thought it might not be a bad idea to pick up this 302 and use it. Also noteworthy, it's a 4 barrel, my 289 is a 2 barrel. Plus, this engine appears to be in great condition, even better than my 289.

Pics from craigslist:



Description:
Small block Ford 302 engine just removed from a 1966 Mustang. E7TE CA cast iron 1987 block. Engine comes complete from
oil pan to Weiand aluminum 4 barrel intake manifold. Including: cast iron heads, newer model alternator, valve covers, water pump,
cam, exhaust manifolds, distributor, plugs and plug wires, coil, flex fan, etc... Engine uses serpentine belt to power water pump and
alternator. Engine runs fine. A little cleaning and maybe some paint and it could be ready to drop in any number of Ford cars or trucks.








Thoughts????

 

If it came out of a car it has a roller cam. If it came out of a GT mustang it has a roller cam and FORGED pistons
For $300 that is a good deal.
Buy it.

 

this is not true 100% 93+ 5.0 ho motors didnt have forged pistons even the cobra didnt have them

 

regardless, if it's an E6 or later block it should have the large base circle cam journals and extra depth in the lifter bores to install a roller cam. you may need to drill a couple of holes for the spider. i don't know if they milled the non-roller blocks for the dogbones or not.

the real crapshoot is whether or not it's been bored. i bought a $300 roller block that the owner said wasn't bored to find out it's already a worn out .040 over. I got everything but the upper intake so it wasn't a bad deal but still annoying.

 

forged-aluminum pistons, a hydraulic-roller camshaft, a double-roller timing set, and stamped 1.6:1 nonadjustable rocker arms. Rated static compression runs around 9.0:1 with the stock cast-iron E7TE cylinder heads, which are equipped with puny 1.78/1.46-inch intake/exhaust valves and nominal 60cc chambers.

If you rebuild why not stroke it?

 

Good point. You've got a stroked 302 right? 347?


And thanks for the advice guys. I think I'm gonna jump on it.

 

if you stroke it, consider doing a 331 instead of a 347 if you plan on driving it a lot. the 347 has increased oil consumption due to the oil control ring being exposed by the pin hole.